Five Crowns garb gets 21st century update

After 42 years in business, Lawry’s Five Crowns in Corona del Mar has traded in its “lusty wench” server costumes for more elegant and comfortable uniforms, which debuted at the restaurant Tuesday evening.

The female servers at the restaurant, which is modeled after one of England’s oldest inns, have worn somewhat low-cut, short-skirted dresses, akin to those of an early 20th century English chambermaid, since Five Crowns opened in 1965.

“It was time to really upgrade the themed costumes and bring the professionalism of the restaurant and the service staff to the floor with these new uniforms,” general manager Chris Szechenyi said. “They are more elegant and professional, and yet they carry through the theme of the restaurant.”

Szechenyi also hopes the change will help synchronize the look of male and female servers. Because the previous costumes were designed for women only — with men joining the restaurant’s serving staff only four years ago — he said their uniforms were not “complementary” until now.

“When we added male servers, their white shirts and Tartan-style vests didn’t really tie in,” he said.

Though many employees and guests approve of the new attire, one longtime Five Crowns diner sent in a letter two months ago — signed by herself and 14 others — indicating that she was “heartbroken” to find out about the change, adding that the former “outfits bring out the allure and charm of this fine eatery,” and imploring management to reconsider.

The new uniforms include a white, high-collared blouse or dress shirt, a teal or burgundy tailored vest, and a black, below-the-knee skirt for women, and black pants for men.

Lawry’s Five Crowns, at 3801 East Coast Highway in Corona del Mar, is open for dinner nightly and Sunday brunch.