Generations of happy customers

Greer Wylder

It’s not just the pizza, but a slice of the 1950s that draws people

to Massimo’s Pizza in Costa Mesa. It appeals to teens and families

like an old-time malt shop.

There are no frills here, just black and white checkerboard

floors, photos of Newport Harbor athletes, and sentimental maps of

Italy. The only concessions to technology are the espresso maker and

the ice machine that creates slushy wonders.

Since 1981, owner Massimo Pepic has provided a casual pizza joint

on East 17th Street as a haven for locals. He caters to Newport

Harbor students who can meet for a quick, delicious lunch and still

make it back to class on time, and to families looking for gourmet

Italian food on a budget. Local home sellers even list Massimo’s

Pizza as a point of interest for prospective buyers.

Over the years, Pepic says he has seen at least 40 pizza places

come and go on 17th Street, yet he delights in feeding the

second-generation customers.

“Seventeenth Street is mine. I can’t think of a better street to

own a business,” Pepic said. “It has everything, and it’s surrounded

by an exclusive, family-oriented neighborhood.”

He said he is blessed with a prime location, caring and involved

landlords and wonderful customers. He gives back to the community by

supporting students and local team sports as well as the Boys & Girls

Club.

Memory and food are one for Pepic. He uses his favorite Italian

recipes from his beloved grandmother, Nafi, an extraordinary cook

from Bari, Italy. He left his home in Montenegro -- part of the

former Yugoslavia -- at 16 with his cousins and came to New York.

“The move was easy. We wanted to go America,” Pepic said. “It’s

the best place on earth.”

Pepic spoke Italian and found work at a popular Italian

restaurant. Eventually, he ran a pizza place on Coney Island before

opening Massimo’s in Costa Mesa.

Now he works alongside his two eldest sons -- Esad, 29, and

Sherif, 26. His youngest son, Benjamin, 16, still attends high

school.

At Massimo’s, pizzas start with the best ingredients money can

buy: the flour, the canned pear tomatoes, the mozzarella cheese and

the garlic.

“Why ruin a dish by using powdered garlic or cheap flour?” Pepic

said. “If you want top quality, you have to pay for it.”

His favorite pizzas include the gourmet pizza -- fresh basil,

tomato, garlic and mozzarella ($11.19 for a small, 12-inch pizza to $20.05 for an extra-large, 18-inch pizza.) -- and the Greek pizza --

zesty feta, bell peppers, red onions, black olives and tomatoes

($13.19 for a small, 12-inch pizza to $23.30 for an extra-large,

18-inch pizza).

Sixteen hot and cold sandwiches are available, made with fresh

nine-inch C’est Si Bon baguettes, and each one comes with freshly cut

meats ($4 to $7.25). The hot meatball sandwich has plenty of fresh

garlic, and it’s a best seller.

The Italian-style pastas come from family recipes, and they’re

classics, including an excellent baked lasagna ($6.75 to $8.25),

sausage ravioli ($6.75 to $8.25) and spaghetti with meatballs ($6.50

to $7.99).

Each day, Pepic bakes chicken in shallow water for tender, juicy

and healthful meat and then incorporates it into pasta dishes, such

as chicken and pasta ($6.99 or $8.99), rich fettuccini Alfredo with

chicken ($8.75 to $10.25), or Parmesan chicken sandwiches ($4.50 to

$5.99).

All pasta dishes come with salad and bread. The fantastic salad

deserves its hyperbolic title. It’s Massimo’s version of a New

York-style salad: half iceberg and romaine, red onion, tomatoes and a

light sprinkling of shredded mozzarella with balsamic or red wine and

olive oil dressing ($2.50 or $4.49).

Students can take advantage of Massimo’s unbelievable lunch

special -- two large slices of pizza and soda for just $4. Massimo’s

even has pizzas coming out of the oven just for Newport Harbor

students.

Dinner and lunch specials are served daily.

Massimo’s offers free delivery and exceptional bargains on

catering without servers. Prices start at $4.25 per person for

spaghetti to $5.25 per person for manicotti or chicken and pasta.

There is an eight-person minimum for catering services.

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at

[email protected]; at 1375 Sunflower Ave., Costa Mesa, CA 92626;

or by fax at (714) 966-4679.