Cruising charming old Europe

Sail down the Danube River on a modern cruise ship, for it is the

relaxed way to steep oneself in the sights and cultures of old Europe

with its current lively action.

Take the famous Charles Bridge in Prague, Czech Republic -- dating

from 1342 -- with tourists and locals teeming over this stunning

structure (no vehicles allowed). Artists paint, jazz musicians

perform, gypsies tell fortunes, handicrafts are peddled and

photographers galore snap away as everyone gawks and parades by the

29 baroque sculptured, over-sized saints lining the bridge. Quite a

remarkable sight.

And my wife, Natalie, and I were surprised to find among our tour

group new friends Fran and Don Burdorf of Newport Beach!

With its home port in Passau, Germany, the “Danube Princess” was

modern, providing swimming on the top deck, a striking nightclub

chanteuse singing one evening in the large lounge, and fabulous meals

to be savored, served by handsome young men recruited from Hungary,

Poland and the Republic of Slovakia. Ah, the flaming dessert of one

dinner!

One stop placed us at Melk to view the highly informative

Benedictine Monastery museum displays. Next door, we came upon the

monastery’s phenomenal Library Hall with alcoves 14 shelves high, a

balcony level still higher, gilt decorations, busts of the celebrated

and ceilings painted with floating biblical scenes -- all in a space

displaying architecture of an awesome baroque indulgence.

We experienced a scene right out of the Crusades, climbing from

the charming colorful riverside village of Durnstein to the

overhanging fortifications where Richard the Lion-Hearted was held

for ransom. These dramatic 12th century castle remnants are

surrounded with all manners of wild flowering plants, and they

provide the visitor with a sweeping view of the broad river valley

with its sparse villages sitting among vineyards.

Statues and sculptured memorials are seemingly everywhere -- the

artifacts of a thousand years of military conflicts, religious strife

and humanistic glories. One easily finds statues of the Russian

occupation 1945-1989 (which by treaty must always remain), the whimsy

presented by a bronze peering Napoleon in Bratislava, the Heroes

Square in Budapest, a golden Johann Strauss statue in Vienna or the

hundreds served with tears of deep emotion at the Nazis’ Mauthausen

Concentration Camp.

Then one finds amid arboreal solitude the imposing white statue of

tragic Elizabeth, queen of Hungary and empress of Austria. And a

hundred yards away, a movie shoot is being set up, flood lights and

reflectors arranged by the cameraman and director before the palatial

National Theatre building, in front of which a fiacre carriage --

drawn by four dappled grays -- holds two stylish ladies being

overtaken by a gentleman in a Lamborghini.

Turning the corner one comes upon Vienna’s Shoenbrunn Palace of

1696, which clearly outshines Versailles with its tapestries, parquet

floors, gilt decorations, the Million Room, State Gallery and 18th

and 19th century Habsburg original furniture exemplifying the noble

life -- even the one concession to modernity, the toilet Emperor

Franz Joseph installed in 1900 with a leather seat.

One evening we dined in a wine tavern -- the ancient Heuriger

Weingut in Neustift am Walde -- feasting on huge platters of lamb and

chicken, beer and strudel. The 30 of us then broke out in a bout of

singing good American “oldies” in enough variations and vocal quality

that our guide informed us the management had decided to ban us from

ever returning!

And music seems to be everywhere in the air. A private concert in

the Anton Dvorak home/museum in Prague was a real treat. And as our

ship carried us through the Nibelungengau Wachau -- the Nibelungen

Valley -- passing through 13 locks, there seemed to be Wagnerian

music in the air. Even the ship’s crew joined in, putting on a

delightful show, ending by singing “YMCA” in full costume.

And, oh my, the cuisine during the Danube cruise! One meal

featured artichoke dumpling soup, salmon fillet with shrimp sauce,

sugar peas and saffron risotto, lettuce with ginger honey dressing

and sorbet from citronella. Then came roast saddle of veal, a goat

cheese terrine with bell pepper vegetables, Sacher torte with whipped

cream, and finally a confection with your coffee. Simple fare?

A hundred museums seem to hold 800 years of glories. The modern

museum/gallery of the Czech painter and decorative artist Alphonse

Mucha in central Prague is a delight. The current major shows in

Vienna of Renoir, Brueghel, Picasso Canalleto and Mondrian were

extensive. Not to be missed are the overwhelming display, in four

huge rooms, of armor worn by medieval knights and the extensive

exhibition of historical musical instruments. This last venue was

brought to life by the performance, to our good fortune, of a string

quartet practicing in this resounding acoustical heaven.

The rich sights and treasures of Hungary, Czech Republic,

Slovakia, Austria and southern Germany provide grand rewards for

visitors. These countries are animated by a rich mix of faces and

clothes from all over Central Europe. A memorable cultural cornucopia

indeed.

-- David C. Weber is a resident of Corona del Mar.

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