Villa Romana is another singles serendipity

Glori Fickling

This provocative follow-up on my recent column lauding friendly

cocktail bars where singles may look forward to welcoming

hospitality, showcases charming Villa Romana Trattoria, which has

been a happy haven for aficionados of authentic Italian cuisine since

1993.

That is when gracious Fernanda and Angelo Capraro launched their

popular family style restaurant at the corner of Broadway and Beach

Streets. With energetic Fernanda continuing at the kitchen helm,

creating her multitudinous luscious desserts and fragrant breads, and

genial Angelo greeting guests, the dedicated pair have also managed

to maintain some of their original staff including cook Antonio, who

prepares many of the family recipes, and solicitous servers, Adolfo

and Marta. The Capraro’s son and daughter, who will be remembered by

long time patrons as part of the initial serving crew, have gone on

to exploit their individual careers.

The bar is intimately small, featuring a full range of cocktails

and the added plus that guests relaxing here have a total view of the

immaculate kitchen where pans steaming with the appetizing aromas of

garlic, olive oil, parmesan cheese and assorted herbs tantalize the

senses. Add to this an antipasti menu that is among the most

intriguing of my recent experiences.

While the extensive bill of fare is entirely available at the bar,

an octave of substantially generous appetizers leaves nothing to be

desired. A tasty preface, to complement a potable or a stem of vino,

is the $4.95 bargain bruschetta comprised of Fernanda’s freshly baked

focaccia lightly toasted and smothered with Tuscan style tomato/basil

and grated parmigiana cheese. Calamari fritti comes forth crisply

battered and piping hot from the deep fry, so delicious that the

marinara and tartar dipping sauces are almost superfluous. Equally

superlative is carpaccio di bue, a Venetian favorite posing

paper-thin slices of filet mignon generously sprinkled with capers

and shaved parmigiana, a wrapped lemon half complementing this

presentation. Delicately sliced Alaskan king salmon is a seafood

fancier’s alternate to this dish, both of which are available in half

orders to team with half orders of the aforementioned calamari dish

for a delectable balance of contrasting flavors.

Steaming shellfish offerings are a hefty hit among seven $9.95

appetizers. Guazetto bella Romano teams little green-lipped mussels,

Manila clams and a bounty of minuscule scallops floating in spicy

tomato broth. Vongole al vino bianco features Manila clams sauteed in

a savory broth of butter, garlic and white wine. Vegetarian appetites

should be happily appeased with grigliata mista combining assorted

grilled vegetables which have been marinated in a balsamic dressing

liberally sprinkled with briny goat cheese. Not to overlook, either

is the traditional antipasto offering of prime Italian cold cuts and

cheeses accompanied with marinated specialties.

A hearty bowl of minestrone for $4.25 is always a treat on a

wintery Laguna day, or have the surprise minestra del giorno for

$5.95. A quintet of salads, $5.25 to $9.95, starts with mixed greens

and veggies, going to the Caprese combo layering mozzarella slices

with tomatoes, basil leaves and flavorful seasonings, all simply

dressed with extra virgin olive oil. There are ten entrees $13.95

going to $22.95, as many thin-crusted 12-inch pizzas, each less than

$10. A dozen and a half pastas are $9.95 to $18.95, four risottos in

a $14 range. Lasagna di carne and eggplant parmigiana come fresh from

the oven at $11.95 per serving. Whatever your choice, do save room

for Fernanda’s temptingly displayed dessert creations prepared daily.

Luscious made from scratch temptations include crisp cannolis, creme

brulee, velvety chocolate layer cake plus traditional and lemon

tiramisus.

NEWS BITES

If you haven’t heard about the exciting Hennessey Sweepstakes,

here’s the scoop on a whopping $600,000.00 giveaway. With any entree

ordered after 5 p.m. until Jan. 31 you will receive with your check,

an envelope stuffed with Hennessey Bucks amounting to anywhere from

$2 to $100. Keep this, but do not open it. Following your next

dinner, present the unopened envelope to the manager -- Darren, Dan,

Cathy or Skip, and the your Hennessey Bucks will be deducted from the

price of your dinner. For an extra dividend, dine on any Saturday

night and enjoy, compliments of the house, a potent specialty

martini. For details, call (949) 494-2743

Lovely Laguna ladies displayed their culinary creativity last

Sunday at the festive grand opening of LF Laguna Beach, the exclusive

new warehouse style women’s boutique on Forest Avenue. Manager Ingrid

Nankin and assistant Leslie Christen welcomed guests with pretty

platters of assorted fruits and vegetables, crunchy brochettes

lavished with savory tomato toppings, creamy brie with crisp

crackers, colorful Christmas cookies and ruby glasses of chilled

chardonnay. The upbeat rhythms of Groove Ensemble filling the

fascinating LF Laguna Beach interior entertained enchanted passersby

all along the holiday happy street. Phone (949) 497-9194.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at [email protected].