Brussels Bistro boasts bountiful fare

Glori Fickling

An interesting happening occurred last week en route to seeking

column information for The Coastline Pilot. A stately lineup of tall

seats on the sidewalk above Brussels Bistro beckoned me downstairs

into the restaurant where I quickly discovered several fascinating

changes.

Realizing the Bistro was on the brink of a first anniversary I

decided to congratulate owner Alain Gerard whom I met at the opening

one year ago. However, rather than the Alain who launched the place

in early December 2003, I found his partner, Alain Pauwels, has

replaced Gerard who returned to their shared Brussels hometown

restaurant. Since that September arrival, Pauwels has made impressive

strides. He gained immediate recognition from the prestigious Zagat

Survey. And, beyond owning two primo Les Ecrins Hotels, in Senegal,

Africa and Brussels, Belgium, he has now taken total control here to

reside with his wife and 1-year-old son.

Pauwels credits much of his local success to multi-award winning

executive chef Thomas Crijns and sous chef Guillermo Pahaut whom he

brought from the Belgium dining venue. Add to this their unique

approach to the existing menu and the warm hospitality of the crew,

who add to the friendly European flavor, and it is immediately

evident why business has been steadily increasing.

It is the energetic Pauwels himself, however, who looks to be

making things really tick. Simply watching this giant of a man

rushing about is amazing as he greets guests, waits on tables, slices

bread and is seemingly everywhere at once. This was exemplified on a

rather quiet evening, around 7 p.m. To the background strains of

French music, a party of 14 converged, immediately followed by a

group of six more. With only his waiter/mixologist John John, to

help, orders were efficiently expedited sans any fuss or fanfare

Printed in French with English subtitles the menu, priced from

$9.50 to $26, features such hearty fare as beef stew prepared with

Stella Artois beer; top sirloin in garlic butter with Belgian fries;

a 10-ounce beef burger with caramelized endive and bistro sauce. Of

special note, meatloaf with morel mushrooms is sided with a trio of

vegetable potato puree, each individually incorporating spinach,

endive and carrots. Seafood selections include parsley crusted salmon

in cherry beer sauce, mahi-mahi filet with mango curry chutney and

seasonal vegetables, Dover sole meuniere in lemon brown butter with

steamed potatoes, the latter at $34. Pasta choices add up to

vegetable lasagna with smoked salmon and goat cheese, spaghetti

carbonara and classic spaghetti Bolognese at $12, $13 and $14.

Ten assorted appetizers are $5 to $13 starting with Belgian Abbey

chimay cheese and cream of asparagus soup, going to crab cakes with

marinated bell peppers in whole grain mustard sauce and plump mussels

marinara steaming in a small iron pot. As an entree at $22 the

mussels are lively with garlic, curry or white wine. But have it any

Tuesday and the same bargain tab will also buy you Belgian fries and

a beer on tap or glass of wine. Salads averaging $9.50 include

spinach with gouda cheese and smoked ham; green beans with bacon,

potatoes and onions; and Caesar served in a parmesan bowl, with

chicken add $1.50. Side dishes of fries, vegetable/potato puree,

steamed vegetables, veggies gratin are $3 to $5.

The 17 Belgian brews continue a major highlight at this quaint

underground retreat which also boasts a friendly cocktail bar at the

entry. As a further attraction, a DJ entertains at 10 p.m. Fridays, the lively music embellished with a colorful light show. And, because

the outdoor barstools and counter are strategically fenced from the

sidewalk, an inviting alfresco area has been created so guests may

enjoy their drink while waiting to diner. As one last note, Pauwels

says he is eager to personally reserve accommodations at either of

his happy hotels.

NEWS BITES

Laguna Canyon Winery was launched with a bang up celebration Nov.

7 bringing to our town the considerable expertise of winemaker

Marlowe Huber who hails from Canada where he established his first

winemaking store in Vancouver BC 10 years ago. Showcasing his wares

in a classic tasting room, the vintner is covering every aspect of

the winemaking process sans growing the grapes. In conjunction with

Italian advisor Gianni Seminari, he is currently featuring the

vintage fruits of Italy. At last Wednesday’s annual Chamber Business

Expo at Tivoli Too, he sampled Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio whites,

Rosso Verones, Nebbiolo and Merlot reds, and a late harvest Sauvignon

blanc dessert wine, each exemplifying his theory that Orange County

is ready for the refreshingly fruity, flavorsome tastes that are his

forte. Phone: (940) 715-9463.

Laguna Village update. While the restaurant will probably not make

it in time for Thanksgiving as planned, owner Dorothy Olsen reports

the catering segment has continued to thrive, as has the Wedding

Chapel for which bookings have been consistent since the dining area

was terminated. Following some reconstruction which has been ongoing,

it will probably be a few weeks before the popular oceanfront

alfresco setting is again in shape to welcome the public. Phone:

(949) 494-1956.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at [email protected].