Picayo, cuisine of the sun, shines

Glori Fickling

Champagne and wine flowed freely at Picayo’s celebratory fund-raiser

for the Susan G. Komen Breast Cancer Foundation as did the music

which invited dancing to the rhythms of “Nobody Cares.”

The Oct. 26 event, replete with an appealing silent auction, was

dubbed a Tapas Evening. However, owner chef Laurent Brazier went

totally beyond tapas with a presentation of delicacies that added up

to a total dinner. The lavish buffet of a dozen taste sensations, was

continuously replenished with appetizers and entrees inspired by his

enticing dinner menu.

French and Mediterranean dishes ranged from piping hot charbroiled

lamb chops to ravioli purses plumped with artichoke hearts, wild

mushrooms, prosciutto in a savory lobster/cognac sauce.

Newly noted was a recent refurbishing of the porch-like patio

entry where comfortable seating arrangements now make for dining in a

casual alfresco setting. Dinner commenced with an octave of

appetizers beckoning to such delicacies as lobster bisque perked with

enticing orange zest starting at $8 going to sauteed foie gras

nestled atop spinach perfumed with sherry vinegar sauce.

Decidedly French in flavor were escargot baked in garlic, parsley

butter and served with croutons, a salmon trio of smoked, dill

marinated and tartare preparations served with endive, cream cheese

in caper vinaigrette and the same delicious shrimp cakes featured at

the cancer benefit, presented with saffron rice in tomato red bell

pepper sauce.

Die-hard foodies who recall Picayo’s modest beginning eight years

ago when Brazier and partner David Rubin created their reputation in

a tiny store in a remote North Laguna locale, will recognize many of

the popular dinner entrees.

The snowy filet of halibut crusted in crunchy pistachios is the

signature dish perched on duxelles of mushroom in demi-glace escorted

with olive mashed potatoes. Jumbo sea scallops are sauteed in a

chardonnay parsley sauce bedded atop mashed potatoes. Char grilled

filet mignon is distinguished with morel mushroom port wine reduction

and caramelized shallot mashed potatoes.

Muscovy duck is roasted to tender succulence with diced celery

root in orange Grand Marnier sauce. These, served with an array of al

dente vegetables, are in a $21 to $29.50 range. The priciest item

among nine selections is Chef Laurent’s bouillabaisse heaped in a

glistening copper pan dramatically brimming with lobster tail,

prawns, scallops, mussels, clams, cabilluad, its rich seafood broth

wondrously wafted with saffron rouille. This, for hearty appetites,

is $36.

Rubin and Brazier have further gained a deserved reputation at

Picayo with their monthly wine dinners featured every first

Wednesday. These are four-course presentations coupled with vintages

from varied California wineries. Tabbed at $50 per person exclusive

or tax and gratuity, these are clearly an affordable opportunity to

relish a unique gourmet experience.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident. She may be

reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at [email protected].