Nesai fuses French and Asian cuisine

When Issay Restaurant burned down three years ago, one of Newport’s

favorite Italian seafood restaurants disappeared overnight.

Undeterred, owner Michiko Soffer returned with Nesai in the former

Stuft Noodle Restaurant location at Riverside Avenue in Newport

Beach. Nesai will celebrate a two-year anniversary in December.

Nesai (pronounced nee-say) means “second generation” in Japanese

(Issay means first generation). Soffer’s fans immediately embraced

her new Nesai Restaurant. It’s the local hangout for exceptional

dinners served in a homey atmosphere. Regulars are on a first-name

basis and dine here night after night.

Stop by the bar on a Tuesday night. That’s when neighbors meet for

“wine night.” The friendly crowd brings bottles of wine and stemware

from home. Soffer waives the $14 corkage fee. Dine at the comfortable

entry bar or in the separate dining room. There’s even a room for

special occasions.

Italian specialties originally dominated the menu. These were the

remaining influences from Issay’s Italian chef. A menu redux debuted

two months ago. Soffer and Executive chef Dan Hyatt from the San

Francisco Culinary Art Institute spiced it up with Asian and French

fusion dishes and Italian pastas.

One page is devoted to imaginative appetizers -- among the best in

town. Creative starters are the incredible crispy braised pork belly

served with green onion, cilantro and cucumber salad in a citrus

caramel sauce ($8); and the ahi carpaccio served with a light citrus

Frisee salad, topped with capers, red onion and creamy wasabi sauce

($8). The in-season pan seared scallops are excellent, served with a

light watercress salad, fried leeks, shiitake mushroom vinaigrette

and orange-ginger oil ($11).

Nesai still delights those who prefer Italian cuisine. There are

six great choices of traditional linguine, penne and risotto dishes.

The best selections are the shrimp risotto with Portobello and

porcini mushrooms topped with lemon-infused olive oil ($18); and the

linguine vongole, fresh clams and tomatoes sauteed in a choice of

marinara or white wine garlic sauce with fresh herbs ($17).

Of Nesai’s eight entrees, the two most requested are the

slow-braised boneless short ribs served with haricot verts,

horseradish potato puree and red wine jus ($18); and, the pan-roasted

rack of lamb with coriander- and cumin-scented mushrooms, gala

apples, potato puree and oregano oil ($21). Fresh seafood choices

include excellent salmon and halibut. The Salmon Talley is pan-seared

in a pineapple, ginger, white wine, garlic and soy sauce served with

mashed potatoes and in-season vegetables ($18). The pan-seared

halibut blends well with sweet potato and pine nut raviolis and

asparagus in a white wine, lemon-herb sauce ($20).

There are three daily desserts: tiramisu, torte de nonna and

layered chocolate fondant cake. Tiramisu is on every menu, but

Nesai’s is exceptional. It’s extra fluffy. The torte de nonna is

light, is filled with lemon patisserie cream and has a generous

dusting of confectioner’s sugar.

Appetizers cost from $4 to $8; soups and salads cost from $6 to

$7; pastas cost from $14 to $18; and entrees cost from $17 to $24.

Nesai is open from 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. It is at

215 Riverside Ave. in Newport Beach. Call (949) 646-2333.

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at

[email protected]; at 330 W. Bay St., Costa Mesa, CA 92627; or by

fax at (949) 646-4170.