Time to celebrate Oktoberfest

Mary Furr

Just beyond the roar of the San Diego Freeway, behind the old

Huntington Mall, a fat tortoise cat sleeps on the cobblestone walk of

Old World Village. The astringent aroma of sauerbraten hangs in the

air around the Einbecker Inn.

At Einbecker, two small dining rooms are surrounded by an outdoor

patio with tables and umbrellas. It’s perfect autumn weather -- time

to celebrate Oktoberfest.

This day, my lunch choice is an old favorite -- the Einbecker

Plate ($6.25) with bratwurst, a really big fat-to-bursting,

tight-skinned veal and pork sausage grilled-marked and sizzling. With

it is a scoop of homemade German potato salad quite different from

the American version. It’s made daily by chef Peter Stenzel, who,

with his parents Werner and Magda, runs Einbecker. It is a

combination of potato slices and mashed potatoes seasoned with onions

and herbs with the vinegar astringency so familiar in German cooking.

Another choice is German Ground Steak ($5.50), a good thick patty

of lean beef with tiny bits of bacon, onion and spices that give it a

very distinctive taste. It’s lean and less fatty than a hamburger,

stout and hearty. It is served with either the salad or the

sauerkraut, which my friend chose. The pile of mild vinegary cabbage

is excellent.

Sauerkraut, a staple of German cooking, actually originated with

the Chinese building the Great Wall of China 2,000 years ago. The

fermented shredded cabbage eventually found its way to Europe where

the Germans adopted it as a favorite. Chef Peter doctors it up a bit

to give it it’s authentic flavor. Both entrees are served with rye

bread and a rather ordinary French roll which would have benefited

from a little time in a hot oven.

When it comes to dessert, what is more appropriate than Black

Forest Cherry Torte ($4.50)? It’s two layers of devil’s food caked

with a filling of thick cream and dark cherries with a cream topping

and curl of chocolate. Delicious to linger over with a cup of good

hot coffee.

Oktoberfest was first established as a holiday in October 1810 by

Prince Ludwig the first of Bavaria to celebrate his marriage. The

inn, named for the small village of Einbeck from which the Stenzels

came, is celebrating 19 years at Old World. It’s a family affair very

much like any cafe in Bavaria. The village comes alive during

Oktoberfest with oompa-pa-pa bands from Germany, frosty beer mugs and

that aroma of bratwurst in the mild autumn weather.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have

comments or suggestions, call (562) 493-5062 or e-mail

[email protected]