Home-style Italian

Mary Furr

Coming into Randazzo Italian Cafe is like going home again -- home to

chunky Italian sauces and al dente spaghetti. But it is owner Carole

Kees who is the heart of the place. She’s there everyday ready to

greet the postman who delivers the mail and says he’ll return for

dinner later. She answers the phone with, “Hi, sweetie, will you have

your usual?”.

The small store-front cafe has 10 red checkered vinyl-covered

tables inside and three outside -- perfect in this mild evening

weather. Ordering from the varied menu is challenging but I can never

resist ravioli ($9.60 dinner), the six round pasta pockets stuffed

with seasoned beef.

But first, it’s salad or soup. The fresh cut greens have lots of

ripe olives buried in the center under shredded cheese and Carole’s

creamy Italian Parmesan and garlic cheese dressing. Even the smallest

items are made fresh.

Soup is minestrone this evening, mildly seasoned with zucchini,

carrots, kidney beans and pieces of chunky tomatoes. My order of

ravioli comes with the best fat Italian sausage -- quite spicy --

which Carole gets from Ingardia Bros. The dish is good and hot,

essential in keeping flavors at their peak.

This is also true of the Veal Parmigiana ($13.45), a deliciously

tender breaded slice of meat served in a small casserole bubbling hot

from the oven. A serving of spaghetti with sauce on the side makes

this a rather heavy entree -- some steamed vegetables would have been

preferable. Toasted garlic bread is also served.

For co-owner and husband Dennis, Carole has created a hot dinner

dish -- Randazzo Chicken (10.95), that’s also a favorite with diners.

The split, deboned double breast is tender and thick, lightly

breaded, covered with mozzarella and baked in olive oil and a squeeze

of lemon until it’s hot and the cheese melted. Served with a side of

thin chewy spaghetti covered in thick marinara, it’s irresistible.

Just relax and enjoy, you can diet tomorrow.

You can’t leave without having dessert -- Carole is famous for her

cheesecake (slice $3.50, whole 10”, $30), and several weeks ago she

created a new one -- Key Lime ($3.95), with a crumb crust and pale

green custard filling with a tart, citrus flavor that is just great.

If Italian spumoni ice cream ($2.75) is your thing, Carole has big

hunks of fruit, strawberries in a chocolate, lime and vanilla ice

cream. This is the time for husband Dennis’ rich full-flavored coffee

($1.95), a 99% Columbian roast with a little vanilla and pinch of

chocolate.

Carole’s key ingredient in her 12 year’s experience is “keep the

quality up.” She says she is not a ‘gourmet chef’, just a good coo.

And if you came to her house, you’d have the same good sauces and al

dente pasta.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have

comments or suggestions, call (562) 493-5062 or e-mail

[email protected]