Out of the basement, into Huntington

DINING OUT

Huntington Beach diners have watched the transformation of the old

Rhino Room at 7979 Center Ave., across from the new Bella Terra

shopping center, into the family-style Italian restaurant Buca di

Beppo. The striking, deep burgundy building with colorful

flower-filled window boxes is as welcoming as a family reunion with

an ambience that transports you to a cafe in southern Italy.

You enter at ground level, which is occupied by a lively bar, and

take either the elevator or stairs to the second level, a warren of

many small dining rooms each with its own name and decor. There is

the Cardinal Room, which has a wall draped with a bright red cardinal

cape and the Frank Sinatra shrine featuring photos of “ole blue

eyes.” Then you may pass the Passion Pit, a booth for two draped with

roses and lighted by a candelabrum. The walls at Buca are covered

with family pictures and such famous Italians as Sophia Loren and

Gina Lollabridgia. There’s even a table in the kitchen, the

traditional family booth facing the busy cooks.

We were led to the Wine Room, the ceiling covered with wine

bottles, by our server Chris Gulla, an Ocean View High School

graduate and student at Golden West College, who suggested we order

the Dinner for Two ($22.95), which starts with a salad choice of

either mixed greens, Caesar or tomato -- plenty to share. Each leaf

of fresh romaine is coated with pebbly Caesar dressing, fine for my

friend though I could have used more dressing.

Next, we chose two of three pasta selections -- each huge bowl

served family-style -- you really got the feeling you are at your own

home. One hot bowl contained rigatoni, large ridged pasta tubes about

one and a half inches wide, covered with a thick meat sauce and

another of penne Romano, diagonally cut smooth tubes with thick cuts

of meaty mushrooms, the dish colored with bits of tomato, carrots and

peas. Chef Jean Michno does wonders with the al dente pastas and

complex sauces.

Finally, the main entree of the Dinner for Two came -- a platter

of two lightly broiled tender chicken breasts in a creamy smooth

sauce dominated by the tart flavor of lemon and spiked with tiny

piquant caper buds.

The friendliness of servers passing our table led to their

suggestion for dessert, cheesecake Torta Formaggio con Raspberry

($8.45), a tall dense slice in a bath of raspberry sauce sprinkled

with hazelnuts. It was just as yummy as they said it would be. This,

with the good strong coffee ($2.25), can be a step into culinary

heaven.

According to Partner/Manager Darryl Moore, a Los Angeles native,

Buca di Beppo (which means Joe’s basement) began as a tiny place in a

Minneapolis basement. The restaurant fosters a feeling of

neighborhood and friendliness that spreads like the hugs that greet

you at family get-togethers.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have

comments or suggestions, call (562) 493-5062 or e-mail

[email protected]