Something is new at Gina’s Pizza

Dining Out

When it comes to inspirational success stories, it would be difficult

to top the tale of Laguna’s Alex Costa. The enterprising restaurateur

launched his initial Gina’s Pizza and Pastaria in Boat Canyon in

partnership with mother Gina circa 1983. The place was doubled when

an adjoining dry cleaners folded. Then in 1997, after learning Boat

Canyon would be demolished for total reconstruction, he opened a

second unit on Oak Street. Ironically, following closure of another

cleaning establishment next door, the Oak Street unit was expanded

last year.

The Boat Canyon venue was respectfully reopened days after the

Sept. 11 disaster of 2001 at which time Costa opened a short-lived

Michacoan diner adjoining. Now, with two successful locations going

full-speed ahead, the many loyal friends and patrons were surprised

last month with an invitation to view an attractive new dining room

that has replaced the vacated Michacoan venture. Simultaneously came

an updated menu featuring a delicious menu of nightly specials, a

sophisticated wine selection, luscious imported desserts and the

introduction of new partner and director of operations, Tony Lia.

Additionally, came sumptuous samplings of the many new dishes, some

pasta and pizza favorites, assorted confections and full size tastes

of the red and white vintages.

Officially launched on Feb. 5, the attractive new dining room has

garnered instant accolades. A hand-painted mural of the

Portofina/Amalfi coast on the rear wall gives scenic depth to the

room. A quartet of colorful European photos above cushy banquettes

lends additional charm. It is the distinctive flavor of New York

style Italian cuisine introduced by Lia, that foodies will

appreciate. Here is clean-cut continental cooking utilizing fresh

ingredients even in the seasonings. The sole exception, Lia concedes,

is “salt, pepper, chili flakes and granulated garlic,” the latter

only for a last minute flavor boost if needed.

Among recent blackboard choices were chicken Marsala with

mushrooms, roasted garlic/herb boneless 1/2 chicken, pan roasted

king salmon, linguine marinara with mussels, shrimp, squid and

salmon. Except for such bountiful pasta preparations as the

aforementioned pasta dish presented in a capacious bowl, generously

portioned main courses are served on white oval plates flanked with

potatoes and such seldom encountered vegetables as escarole or

broccoli rabe. Upon seating, guests are happily welcomed with a

platter of garlic/wine marinated button mushrooms and chunks of

focaccia.

Wine aficionados noting vintages normally retailing up to $34 a

bottle will appreciate the fine selection priced at a nominal $19.95

each, $5.85 for the 10-inch stem. Entrees are similarly affordable

attracting those wishing to dine out more than occasionally for great

food in an inviting setting. Look for three to five nightly entrees

in an $10 to $13 range week nights, going to about $18 weekends. The nostalgic background music of Sinatra, Durante, Bennett and the like

merely adds to the homey ambience.

Desserts here are not to be missed either, including superlative

tiramisu, berry tortes and lemony torte del mama which are delivered

as delectable frozen imports from Italy. Velvety filled cannolis are

among sweets prepared in the kitchen. You are invited to phone ahead

for daily surprise specials. And when take-out or delivery are your

choice, Gina’s speedy drivers are at the ready for no extra charge.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at 494-4710 or by e-mail at [email protected].