Tips for a happier holiday meal

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

The trouble with Thanksgiving is that it comes around only once a

year -- too much time has gone by since the last feast. Organized

cooks keep detailed notes about previous celebrations, but I start

off with recipes and play taste and smell until I get it right. Now

I’m trying to figure out what I did last year.

I can’t seem to remember exactly how I made the gravy. Was it the

cranberry sauce or cranberry relish that everyone liked so much?

Which pie crust recipe did I use? But I do recall spending entirely

too much time in the kitchen while our guests leisurely sipped

champagne and nibbled on crusty shrimp hors d’oeuvres. This Turkey

Day will be different. It’s time to ditch the Super Hostess Syndrome

and get real. Here’s my game plan for this Thanksgiving.

New Rule No. 1: Ask for help.

Rather than contributing dishes for the main meal, I much prefer

guests supply the “befores” and “afters.” This way, I can concentrate

on the bird and the side dishes while guests can be in charge of

serving things they bring. The serving part is really important.

If one of your guests loves to bake, they’ll be happy to supply

dessert. No pastry chefs on your guest list? As holiday host, you’re

entitled to ask a guest to purchase a specific kind of pie from your

favorite bakery.

Anyone on your guest list who knows more about wine than you do is

an immediate candidate for beverage supplier. If the expertise goes

in the opposite direction, don’t hesitate to make suggestions, and be

sure to ask for some bubbly stuff, as well.

Hors d’oeuvres are also a good choice for Thanksgiving dinner

contributions, as long as they don’t need re-heating in your

already-occupied oven. A platter of gorgeous canapes, vegetables and

dip are good choices. Anything that can be transported and served at

room temperature earns extra points.

Depending on the size of your group and dining area, organize your

own staff of waitpersons in advance, and be sure someone keeps those

glasses filled. Your guests really want to feel useful, and will be

better assistants if they have assigned jobs.

Asking for help with cleanup is a bit tricky. Do you really want

anyone’s final impression of their Thanksgiving at your home to be

time spent at the sink? A spouse, significant other or dutiful

offspring should fall right in line.

Rule No. 2: Do as much as you can in advance.

As long as your stuffing does not include raw eggs, make it the

day before and store in the refrigerator. This year I’m going to

prepare (as in “ready for the table”) all the vegetables in the

morning. Sealed tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerated if

necessary, they can be microwaved at the last minute. Mashed potatoes

can be made ahead, too. Reheat in a double boiler or combination of

pans over simmering water.

Making gravy after the bird has been removed from the oven is a

real pain. A recipe in Cook’s Illustrated magazine

(cooksillustrated.com) suggests preparing the stock and adding it to

a roux of flour and butter while the turkey is roasting. When the

turkey comes out of the oven, all you have to do is skim off the fat

and add the drippings to the gravy. And while we’re talking turkey,

lots of good information is available at turkeyhelp.com and

foodtv.com.

If you’re doing dessert yourself, remember that pies can be baked

the day before, and Bundt-style cakes, made with persimmons, apples

or pears, can be made weeks ahead and frozen.

Rule No. 3: Keep it simple, but special.

No one bringing hors d’oeuvres this year? Put out a few plates

(something really attractive) of different olives, spiced pecans and

a platter of high-quality cheese with thinly sliced pumpernickel

bread. Prepare the plates about an hour before the guests arrive,

cover the olives and cheese loosely with plastic wrap and set them

out. Before you greet the first guests, just remove the wrapping.

Instead of displaying your less-than-perfect carving skills at the

table, assemble your guests in the kitchen so that everyone can

admire the turkey, and have someone propose a toast to the bird and

the person who cooked it.

When you’re ready to serve, present a beautifully decorated

platter of sliced turkey and appoint someone to fill requests.

Stuffing cooked outside the turkey is not nearly as messy as poking

around the carcass at the last minute when there’s lots more to do.

And, don’t forget to keep the “thanks” in Thanksgiving. My thanks

to the many readers who welcome me into their kitchens to talk about

my favorite subject. Happy cooking and happy Turkey Day to you all.

* LILLIAN REITER is a Laguna Beach resident. A self-described

“shameless foodie,” she is co-authoring a cookbook. She can be

reached at [email protected] or P.O. Box 248, Laguna Beach, CA

92652, or by fax at 494-8979.