Dining Review -- Stephen Santacroce

When Wolfgang Puck opened Spago Restaurant in 1982, he single-handedly

transformed the Los Angeles culinary map. To be sure, chef’s like Chez

Panisse’ Alice Waters may be credited with the beginnings of California

Cuisine, and Los Angeles had many renowned restaurants in the early ‘80s

such as Ma Maison (where Puck worked as head chef) and L’Ermitage, but it

was Spago that quickly established itself as truly pioneering. Here was

a gourmet restaurant whose signature dish was pizza, of all things, with

an Austrian chef seemingly born to host a TV show.

Puck embraced the celebrity that he quickly garnered and immediately

capitalized on the success of Spago with other hit restaurants including

Chinois on Main and Granita. Embracing the idea early on that chefs could

be considered celebrities in their own rights and be as financially

successful as other business people, Puck, from the start, devised his

menus knowing that others would have to re-create his works in the

kitchens of his empire as he jetted around the country increasing its

domain. Patrick Kuh writes in his book, The Last Days of Haute Cuisine,

that Puck had “taken sound culinary principles and adapted them into a

system, that, with the right financing, could be endlessly reproduced”.

Endless is an appropriate word, as Puck now has fine dining

restaurants in Los Angeles, San Francisco, Chicago and Las Vegas, a line

of branded frozen foods available at the supermarket, and a chain of more

casual Wolfgang Puck Cafes that seem to be opening in every major

shopping mall and Airport in the U.S.

There are two Wolfgang Puck Cafes in the Newport-Mesa area, both

located in the county’s major shopping centers: Fashion Island and South

Coast Plaza. I’ve eaten at both many times, enjoying a welcome break from

frantic holiday gift buying or a more leisurely trip to the mall with my

friend, Karen.

Recently we stopped off at the location in Fashion Island for a quick

dinner. I was surprised that the restaurant was three-fourths full on a

Monday, particularly since the mall locations tend to do much more of a

lunch business than dinner. The staff may not have expected such a crowd

either, as we waited at least five minutes at the hostess stand before we

were seated. Several servers passed by while we waited, glancing

furtively in our direction. A simple “someone will be right with you”

would have been nice. Things improved once we were seated, as our perky

waitress quickly took our cocktail orders and recited the day’s specials.

As befitting a restaurant located in a bustling shopping center, the

decor at Wolfgang Puck Cafe is decidedly bold. Black tile floors and

black walls are punctuated with geometric shapes painted in striking

primary colors that have a hint of Southwestern influence. The lighting

is bright but not blinding, and servers are constantly bustling by with

drinks or hot food orders. Perhaps to compliment the restaurant’s casual

nature, the tables are topped with overlapping sheets of white butcher

paper, which kids armed with crayons love but I found annoying,

especially as the edges started to curl as our meal progressed.

The restaurant’s menu borrows heavily from the varied cuisines offered

at Puck’s more expensive restaurants, offering diners with more modest

budgets a chance to sample a version of the cuisine he made famous. For

example, the Trio of Spring Rolls ($9.95), is certainly an appetizer

inspired by Chinois on Main, the highly successful Santa Monica eatery.

Chef David Gross produces crisp, light egg rolls filled with curried

chicken, spicy shrimp and savory vegetables and served with several

dipping sauces, including a spicy honey mustard, my favorite.

Other starters include crispy fried calamari ($7.95) served with a

curry-ginger sauce, or a hearty tortilla soup ($5.25), a rich spicy broth

loaded with roasted tomatoes, chunks of chicken breast and goat cheese.

Enjoy it as a first course or add a salad such as the field greens

($5.25) with sherry vinaigrette for a light meal.

Another dish borrowed from Chinois is the famous Chinese chicken salad

($9.95), a crunchy mixture of chopped lettuces, cabbage, carrots and

other vegetables tossed in a honey-mustard dressing kicked up with just

the right amount of wasabi.

Of course a restaurant bearing Puck’s name and designed to introduce

his food to the masses wouldn’t be the same without his signature pizzas,

and they’re here in several varieties, cooked in a fiery wood burning

oven that blazes constantly just off the kitchen.

Perhaps the most famous pizza served at Spago, the one that defined

that restaurant, was the smoked salmon pizza. It’s served here, both in

an appetizer size ($9.95) and as an entree ($13.95). It’s a simple

creation really; dill-infused sour cream topped with fresh-smoked salmon

on a crisp dough crust that has just the right balance between chewy and

crunchy. Other pizzas include a more traditional pepperoni ($9.95)

augmented with roasted garlic and the addition of fontina cheese to the

usual mozzarella-parmesan blend, or the Mediterranean ($10.50),topped

with grilled eggplant, red onion, olives and Feta.

Also featured are several pasta dishes, including

fettuccine”Wolf-Fredo” ($12.95), a creamy dish loaded with Parmesan

cheese and flecks of Pancetta (Italian bacon), flavored with garlic and

just a touch of thyme. It’s a filling dish that usually produces enough

leftovers for a light supper or next-day lunch.

The pumpkin ravioli ($11.95) aren’t as successful, the roast pumpkin

filling is dry and the pasta are overstuffed, allowing the filling to

overpower the dish and overcome the subtle flavors of the brown butter

glaze and port sauce it’s served with.

The Cafe’s extensive menu also offers a selection of sandwiches,

including a zesty pesto chicken salad ($8.95) with baby spinach served on

warm focaccia, and several excellent dinner selections including

pan-seared salmon ($17.95) served over garlic mashed potatoes with a

light, artichoke flavored broth. A moderately priced selection of wines,

as well as cocktails from the full bar, are available to augment your

meal.

Wolfgang Puck’s Cafe is a combination of marketing and cuisine; a high

turnover concept that doesn’t sacrifice on food quality, offering

modestly priced food in convenient settings. It’s consistent with Puck’s

desire to bring his food to everyone, while at the same time capturing

some of the spirit and distinction that catapulted Spago to world fame.

* Stephen Santacroce’s restaurant reviews appear every other Thursday.

Send him your comments at o7 [email protected] .

FYI

What: Wolfgang Puck Cafe

Where: 841 Newport Center Drive

When: Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Fri through Sat, 11:00 am to 10 p.mHow Much: Moderate

Phone: (949) 720-9653