MARY FURR -- Dining Out

Despite its romantic name, China Moon in Huntington Beach is a

no-nonsense restaurant with self-directed diners who know exactly what

they want for lunch ($5.50) or dinner ($6.95). Patrons of this small

buffet-style restaurant on Edinger Avenue and Goldenwest Street are

familiar with the seasonal fresh offerings and have their favorites.

Take it slowly so as not to miss anything -- this is a compact kind of

place with two big, round family tables and a long banquette backing

generous-sized round booths.

To the side of the double steam buffet are two large kettles of very good

hot soup -- thick egg flower with strands of egg white and bits of corn,

and a spicy, thinner sweet and sour.

The buffet is replenished often with hot servings from the kitchen. It is

a good idea to do the same to your plate, sampling a few dishes at a

time, enjoying hot food throughout the meal.

Try the appetizers first -- a variety offered in one tray. There are egg

or spring rolls wrapped in the crispiest won ton skins and filled with

fresh cabbage and carrot strands; sliced yams as big as silver dollars,

soft inside their crisp coats; and fried fish with a crunchy cover. The

seasoned cream cheese filling in the won tons was a little skimpy and not

as good as the other appetizers.

Now for some main dishes -- slender and bright green sauteed string beans

with garlic are wonderfully firm with a spring-like flavor. Braised

chicken and beef are combined with some great flavors. According to

manager Ming Ng, zesty orange chicken is one of the most popular dishes

with both adults and children.

Another combination is chicken cubes with halves of mushrooms in a

well-seasoned sauce and a hot tray filled with chicken and lots of cashew

nuts. Barbecue pork has a nice smoky-sweet flavor on strips of meat

rather than ribs, easier to eat and good to combine with the fresh

steamed carrots and broccoli. An excellent beef dish has slender fresh

asparagus with it. Less attractive in appearance but tasty was the egg fu

yung, a round patty-style omelet of eggs, onion and bean sprouts.

You’ll also find kung pao chicken with those slender red peppers to give

it fire. It’s named for “the guardian of the palace,” who legend says

invented the dish.

Complete your selection with vegetable fried rice and vegetable chow

mein, a pile of noodles with celery and bean sprouts.

Finally, for a light touch to finish, choose a slice of cantaloupe, a

sweet orange quarter or pineapple squares. Desserts are not a big thing

in Chinese cooking.

Owner and chef Pak Chan, who opened China Moon in 1992, has spread a

palate of Chinese dishes before you to sample and combine as you like. No

need to decide -- just try them all.

For a buffet of its size, China Moon is remarkably good.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have comments or

suggestions for her, call (562) 493-5062.

FYI

China Moon Restaurant

WHERE: 7114 Edinger St. in Huntington Beach

HOURS: Tuesday-Saturday lunch 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., dinner 5 to 9 p.m.

Closed Monday. Also closed Tuesday.

CALL: 848-1142

MISC.: Beer and wine are served. Visa and Mastercard only.