MARY FURR -- Dining Out

“Duke’s is a perfect fit for Huntington Beach,” Manager Pablo Scurto

says.

And he’s right on about the restaurant with a Hawaiian theme that honors

the great surf legend Duke Kahanamoku. It’s a casual yet adventurous kind

of place with a brunch ($14.95) Mom will love when you take her this

Sunday.

The large 1940s-style bungalow, with its low roof and white trim, is

right at the base of the pier where Main Street meets Pacific Coast

Highway. The “aloha” friendliness greets you at the door. Soon you are

surrounded with fresh-faced servers in Hawaiian-style shirts who are

eager to lead you to a window-side table or out to the veranda, which has

what Scurto calls “the best view along the coast.”

A salad buffet divides the dining room and bar, with desserts nearby. The

hot buffet is in the dining room, adjacent to the kitchen, which is great

as the fish, meats and vegetables are replenished often and kept hot --

rare in buffet service.

You may order from the menu or have the brunch. It was the buffet brunch

for us. A welcome touch is the tiny surf board label that identifies each

item.

An excellent mixed salad with a tangy balsamic vinaigrette has a good

crunch. A Caesar salad was fresh, but ordinary. The fruit has the

sweetest pineapple slices and really huge strawberries.

A bowl of ceviche marinated in lime juice was very fresh, but could have

been firmer. The smoked salmon lox is beautiful -- slender slices served

with cream cheese and bagels.

The hot steam table holds solid, well-scrambled eggs topped with melted

cheese, a good mix of cubed breakfast potatoes, eggs benedict and

vegetarian benedict, really plump mild sausage links and crisp bacon.

Here Executive Chef David Baumann has prepared some wonderful dishes -- a

sugar-spiced mahi mahi has a dark, sweet and spicy papaya-mustard sauce

that blends well with the firm white fish. The Huli Huli Chicken Breast

rivals the fish for flavor with a unique homemade Hawaiian sauce.

The prime rib, however, was a frustrating mix of tender slices and slices

that were tough. A better choice here is lean, black-crusted Smithfield

ham with a flavor that is rich, salty and dry. These special hams must be

cured and processed in Virginia to be called Smithfield. If you’ve tasted

one, you’ll always remember.

The cold rolls served at the hot buffet are an insult to such excellent

fish and meat.

Chef Francisco Garcia’s desserts are like miniature jewels -- just a bite

to finish a fine meal. The dark chocolate-dipped fat macaroons and huge

strawberries, square tarts filled with toasted macadamia nuts, tiny

layered cakes and sharp lemon tarts are treats you’ll agonize over. Try

them all!

Manager Scurto says Duke’s is both a summer tourist destination and, for

the other nine months, a local favorite. And that’s how he likes it. For

Mother’s Day, he says the restaurant will have “lots of aloha” with

orchid-decorated tables and strolling musicians. She’ll love it all!

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have comments or

suggestions for her, call (562) 493-5062.

FYI

Duke’s Huntington Beach

WHERE: 317 Pacific Coast Highway

HOURS: Lunch -- 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday, dinner

-- 5 to 10 p.m. nightly, Sunday brunch from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., but

Mother’s Day brunch 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.

CALL: 374-6446

MISC.: Credit cards accepted. Reservations recommended.