Vizcaya Museum & Gardens in Miami shows a keen eye for detail - Los Angeles Times
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Vizcaya Museum & Gardens in Miami shows a keen eye for detail

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The breeze off Biscayne Bay and playful fountains cool Vizcaya’s elaborate gardens even on a sweltering summer day — not that International Harvester heir James Deering would have known. The Coconut Grove, Fla., mansion was his winter estate. When it opened in 1916, Miami’s population was a mere 10,000.

Why it’s a treasure: With the help of painter and designer Paul Chalfin, Deering handpicked every item in his marbled mansion, deftly mixing a French harpsichord, Pompeian table, Venetian gates with an English manor house library, Chinese bedroom and south Florida coral rock.

Why you’d want to live here: Deering was the ultimate host, with a billiards table that could be flipped to reveal a roulette wheel and a bowling alley and bar stocked with bootleg whiskey. Silent films were shown in the courtyard, and cocktails were served on a stone barge an easy stroll from the house. The Mound built at the end of the gardens features a fireplace room for cool nights. Vizcaya is still Miami’s choice for grand weddings and stately receptions. Pope John Paul II, President Reagan and Queen Elizabeth II have been feted here.

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Why you wouldn’t want to live here: Salt air and humidity make upkeep a nightmare. Preparing for a major storm is a Herculean task; the hurricane of 1926 nearly destroyed the mansion and grounds.

Surprises: Grottoes, a swimming pool and secret gardens abound — need we say more?

Info: Vizcaya Museum & Gardens, 3251 S. Miami Ave.; (305) 250-9133, https://www.vizcayamuseum.org. Open 9:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m. daily except Tuesdays, Christmas and Thanksgiving. $5 audio tours are offered in five languages. A cafe offers coffee, salads and sandwiches. Adults, $15; seniors and students with ID, $10; ages 6-12, $6; under 5, free.

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