A beach vacation in Sperlonga, Italy

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Romans flock to the sea at the height of summer when temperatures in the Italian capital climb above 80 degrees. In the old hill town of Sperlonga, beaches stretch north and south along the coast about halfway between Rome and Naples. (Susan Spano / Los Angeles Times)

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The Mount Whitney, flagship of the U.S. Navys 6th Fleet, in port at Gaeta, just south of Sperlonga. (Susan Spano / Los Angeles Times)

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The old town of Sperlonga, referred to as Alta Sperlonga, sits on a headland overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea. It’s a popular place where visitors and locals stroll, shop and dine. (Susan Spano / Los Angeles Times)

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Sperlonga’s old-town area is open to pedestrians only. (Susan Spano / Los Angeles Times)

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At dinnertime, beach people get dressed and climb up the hill to town for a drink in the little piazza, followed by dinner. The more modern section of the town, Sperlonga Bassa, sits at sea level. (Susan Spano / Los Angeles Times)

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Visitors and locals frequent the piazza in the old town. (Susan Spano / Los Angeles Times)

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Sperlongas water was awarded the coveted Blue Flag for cleanliness. (Susan Spano / Los Angeles Times)

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On the beach at Sperlonga. There is free beach access, but most people rent umbrellas and chairs at a beachfront bar-restaurant. (Susan Spano / Los Angeles Times)

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Hothouse tomatoes in Sperlonga are an important ingredient in regional cuisine, along with fresh fish. (Susan Spano / Los Angeles Times)

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Statues from the Grotto of Tiberius are on display in the town’s archaeological museum. (Susan Spano / Los Angeles Times)

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Sculptures from Tiberius’ grotto were smashed in the 6th century and restored, according to Lonely Planet’s Rome guidebook. (Susan Spano / Los Angeles Times)

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A close-up of one of the statues at the archaeological museum. (Susan Spano / Los Angeles Times)

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Ruins of Tiberius’ villa near the grotto that bear the emperor’s name. (Susan Spano / Los Angeles Times)

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Ruins of Tiberius’ villa. (Susan Spano / Los Angeles Times)

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The grotto features a pool that Tiberius used. (Susan Spano / Los Angeles Times)

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The grotto, with the pools in the foreground. (Susan Spano / Los Angeles Times)

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Sperlonga’s beaches are a summer magnet for Italians and foreign travelers. (Susan Spano / Los Angeles Times)

By Susan Spano

Aug. 12, 2008 12 AM PT

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Los Angeles Times Staff Writer

Popes and emperors left Rome every summer to get away from the heat. So I did too.

I spent three days at Sperlonga, a charming old hill town on the Tyrrhenian Sea, about halfway between Rome and Naples.

There are popular beach places closer to Rome, but nothing as nice as Sperlonga, with its pedestrian-only old town (Sperlonga Alta), winding staircases that lead down to the ocean and the Grotto of Tiberius and the nearby archaeological museum.

Long beaches spread to the north and south, lined by bathing establishments where you can rent a chaise and umbrella for about $20 a day.

The sand gets so hot you have to run from your chair to the water, but once you get in you know why you came.

The sea is clear and cool, with little waves. Right away I bought a rubber raft and paddled out past the break, then stayed put for the rest of the afternoon.

At dinnertime, the beach people get dressed and climb up the hill to town for a drink in the little piazza, followed by dinner. The area is a fresh fish haven. I had some form of calamari with almost every meal.

Too soon, though, I had to go back to Rome. Driving into the city, I saw a thermometer that said it was 97 degrees Fahrenheit at 6 p.m.!