A bed, a meal and a backcountry ride

GETTING THERE:

New Cuyama is about 140 miles north of Los Angeles. Take U.S. 101 to California 33 in Ventura. At Maricopa Road in Ojai, 33 veers left toward the Cuyama Valley. After about 60 miles, 33 joins California 166. It’s 10 more miles west on 166 to New Cuyama. There are no services between Ojai and New Cuyama.

WHERE TO STAY:

Cuyama Buckhorn, 4923 Primero St., New Cuyama; (661) 766-2591. Twenty-two rooms in cinder-block cottages painted barn red. TV and air conditioning. Doubles from $49.50.

WHERE TO EAT:

Sagebrush Annie’s, 4211 California 33, Ventucopa; (661) 766-2319. Larry Hogan and wife Karina take to heart their sign: “Through these doors walk the nicest customers.” The idiosyncratic interior looks like someone’s living room, but the place serves gourmet-quality food, with an emphasis on steaks. Open 5-8:30 p.m. Fridays-Sundays. Reservations required. Entrees $14-$26.

Buckhorn cafe, see address above. Country cooking and friendly service. Dinner entrees $8-$12.

WHAT TO DO:

Emery Johnston leads horseback rides into Los Padres National Forest that include day rides, overnight pack trips into the wilderness or horsemanship camps that include overnight stays on his ranch. Reservations recommended a month ahead. (805) 680-2817, www.johnstonhorsecamp.com. A four-hour ride costs about $100 per person.

TO LEARN MORE:

The book “A Traveler’s Guide to California’s Scenic Highway 33 ... From Ojai to Cuyama,” written by E.R. “Jim” Blakley and edited by Jeanine Moret. Available from Pacific Books, P.O. Box 3562, Santa Barbara, CA 93130; (805) 687-8340 or [email protected].