Guidebook: A Marseille Meander

Getting there: From LAX to Marseille, connecting service (change of planes) is offered on Air France, British Airways and Lufthansa; restricted round-trip fares start at $972 for travel through June 15, rising to $1,137 in summer.

Travelers also can fly from L.A. to Paris, then take a three-hour train ride to Marseille. AirLib and Air France fly to Paris nonstop, US Airways has direct service (at least one stop but no plane change), and several other airlines offer connecting service. Restricted round-trip fares start at $799 through June 15; summer fares start at $1,037.

Telephones: To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (international code), 33 (country code), 491 (the area code) and the local number.

Where to stay: Sofitel Marseille Vieux Port, 36 Boulevard Charles Livon, 13007; 155-900, fax 155-950, https://www.sofitel.com. Some rooms with view of port and old town. Rack rates for doubles start at $173; weekend specials for $120.

Novotel Marseille Vieux Port; 011-33-496-114-211 (note different area code), fax 011-33- 496-114-220, https://www.novotel.com. Less expensive sister hotel to the Sofitel in the same building. Doubles from about $90.

Hôtel Le Petit Nice-Passédat, Anse de Maldormé, Corniche John F. Kennedy, 13007; 592-592, fax 592-808, https://www.relaischateaux.com/passedat. The city’s finest hotel, with one of its best restaurants (see below). Doubles from $148.

Hôtel Le Corbusier, 280 Boulevard Michelet, 13008; 167-800, fax 167-828. Architecturally noteworthy. Doubles from $53.

Where to eat: Sample bouillabaisse and other local fish dishes at:

Miramar, 12 Quai du Port; 911-040, https://www.bouillabaisse.com. Entrees from about $21; bouillabaisse $42 per person.

Hotel Le Petit Nice-Passédat (see above). Set menus start at $52.

Fonfon, 140 Vallon des Auffes; 521-438, https://www.fonfon.com. Bouillabaisse $34 per person.

L’Epuisette, Anse du Vallon des Auffes; 521-782, https://www.l-epuisette.com. Set menus $28-$54.

For excellent pizza in Le Panier, Chez Étienne, 43 Rue Lorette; no phone. Bistro open since 1943. Dinner for two about $50.

The best couscous is at La Kahena, 2 Rue de la République; 906-193. Dinner for two without wine, $30.

For more information: French Government Tourist Office, 9454 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 715, Beverly Hills, CA 90212-2967; (310) 271-6665 or (410) 286-8310 (France-on-Call hotline), fax (310) 276-2835, https://www.francetourism.com.