The real ‘Roma’

Neon murals decorate Comedor de los Milagros, Roma Sur’s popular food court and bar serving international cuisines that show off Mexico City’s place as a center of Latin American culture. (Ray Mark Rinaldi/for the Chicago Tribune)

Chicago Tribune

Feb. 12, 2019 3:18 PM PT

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The Mexico City neighborhood showcased in the Oscar-nominated film is a trendy, tourist-friendly — and complicated — place.

Roma Sur is known for its murals. This one is on Calle Tepeji, the street where the movie “Roma” was filmed. (Ray Mark Rinaldi/for the Chicago Tribune)

At El Moro churros, Mexican street food gets the glam treatment. (Ray Mark Rinaldi/for the Chicago Tribune)

Roma Norte is known for its bookshops — with books antique and new. (Ray Mark Rinaldi/for the Chicago Tribune)

There are plenty of ways to get around in Roma — shared bikes, scooters, mopeds and motorcycles. Download the apps. This rider is cruising around Fuente de Cibeles. (Ray Mark Rinaldi/for the Chicago Tribune)

The massive Mercado Medellin in Roma Sur offers an old-school alternative to modern grocery stores. (Ray Mark Rinaldi/for the Chicago Tribune)

Dog walking is big business in Roma Norte. (Ray Mark Rinaldi/for the Chicago Tribune)

Dog trainers work their magic in Parque Espana. Here 43 dogs, handled by a single trainer, sit patiently. (Ray Mark Rinaldi/for the Chicago Tribune)

Plaza Rio de Janeiro is centered on an oversized replica of Michelangelo’s David. (Ray Mark Rinaldi/for the Chicago Tribune)

The popular El Pendulo bookstore has three levels of stacks, a restaurant and a performance space. It’s busy day and night. (Ray Mark Rinaldi/for the Chicago Tribune)

Mexico City offers free bike rentals at many places around the city, including the streets surrounding Fuente de Cibeles. (Ray Mark Rinaldi/for the Chicago Tribune)

Galeria OMR in Roma Norte is one of Mexico City’s leading art spaces. (Ray Mark Rinaldi/for the Chicago Tribune)

Mercado Medellin has more than 500 stalls. (Ray Mark Rinaldi/for the Chicago Tribune)

Roma Norte is an architectural mix, with art deco, colonial and modern styles coming together. What they have in common: exuberance. (Ray Mark Rinaldi/for the Chicago Tribune)

Street corner shrines are part of the urban landscape in Roma. (Ray Mark Rinaldi/for the Chicago Tribune)

Roma Norte’s Taqueria Orinoco is a top spot for tacos al pastor, featuring thinly sliced pieces of marinated pork. (Ray Mark Rinaldi/for the Chicago Tribune)