Walking Japan’s Kumano Kodo

Lanterns illuminate a pathway through Okunoin cemetery near Koyasan. More than 200,000 tombstones dating back 1,200 years occupy the cemetery, Japan’s largest and a popular side trip on the Kumano Kodo.   ( Amy S. Eckert/Chicago Tribune )

Clothed in white, religious adherents at the Naiku shrine in Ise, Japan, cross the Isuzugawa River en route to morning classes. Although not technically part of the traditional Kumano Kodo route, the Naiku shrine marks a popular and practical finish to a modern-day trek along the Kumano Kodo, owing to Ise’s proximity to Japan’s high-speed, long-distance train network.   ( Amy S. Eckert/Chicago Tribune )

Over mountain ridges, beneath cypress and bamboo forests and through humble villages, the Kumano Kodo snakes across Japan’s Kii Peninsula linking three important Shinto shrines: Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Kumano Nachi Taisha.   ( Amy S. Eckert/Chicago Tribune )

Hikers make their way along Japan’s Kii Mountains. From this path, the Kumano Kodo descends to Hongu Taisha shrine, one of three important Shinto shrines along the pilgrimage route.   ( Amy S. Eckert/Chicago Tribune )

A moss-covered shrine greets travelers along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail. Hundreds of these minor, nameless shrines, or oji, line the path where they have stood for at least 500 years, offering blessings and an opportunity for prayer and reflection.   ( Amy S. Eckert/Chicago Tribune )

Hikers along the Kumano Kodo can spend the night in Buddhist temples and traditional ryokan inns, such as the Yunominesou, shown here. Guest rooms typically incorporate views of the area’s natural surroundings and a soak in the inn’s private hot springs.   ( Amy S. Eckert/Chicago Tribune )

A golden glow illuminates the windows of a shop selling religious amulets and souvenirs at the Naiku shrine in Ise, Japan.   ( Amy S. Eckert/Chicago Tribune )

A minor shrine, or oji, awaits travelers along Japan’s Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail. After ringing the bell suspended by a red and white cord, the faithful pay their respects before continuing their journey.   ( Amy S. Eckert/Chicago Tribune )

A directional post along Japan’s 1,000-year-old Kumano Kodo, which is often compared to Spain’s St. James Way. The two trails are the only long-distance paths recognized by UNESCO as World Heritage List pilgrimage routes.   ( Amy S. Eckert/Chicago Tribune )

The stone foundations making up large sections of the Kumano Kodo may well have been laid in the 15th century, when the pilgrimage route once reserved for nobility and samurai became accessible to the masses.   ( Amy S. Eckert/Chicago Tribune )

The imposing Torii gate at Hongu Taisha shrine towers 111 feet high and can be seen from miles away. Hongu Taisha shrine is one of three important shrines along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route.   ( Amy S. Eckert/Chicago Tribune )

Residents along the Kumano Kodo offer snacks and drinks to trail hikers. Here, guests are invited to purchase locally grown tea leaves, chile peppers and plums.   ( Amy S. Eckert/Chicago Tribune )

A local shop along the Kumano Kodo sells vintage cards depicting Japanese literature and films.   ( Amy S. Eckert/Chicago Tribune )

A glimpse across the Kii Mountains from the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route. In the distance is the Japanese seaside town of Ise and the end of the modern-day trail.   ( Amy S. Eckert/Chicago Tribune )

The three-legged crow Yatagarasu symbolizes the Kumano region. Lucky amulets depicting the crow are sold at shrines and gift shops along the Kumano Kodo.   ( Amy S. Eckert/Chicago Tribune )