Reds that show well with a feast

THE wine glasses set out on the holiday table sparkle mischievously in the candlelight. The host or hostess pulls the cork on the wine, and that splash of garnet or burgundy or plum seems to bring all the other colors of this Thanksgiving meal into focus. Let’s toast, then, giving thanks for the time to spend this wonderful meal with those closest to us, and for everything we have in our lives. Let’s toast to the hands that made the wine, and to the hope that the future will bring us more delicious bottles such as these.

The Thanksgiving meal is traditionally a cacophony of flavors -- delicate, sweet, tart, buttery, rich. That calls for a lush, round red wine with soft, ripe tannins, nothing too important or detailed -- something lovely and easy-drinking that everyone from novice to wine geek will appreciate. To that end, we’ve ferreted out three reds that will not only look beautiful on the table, but also are sure to add their seductive note to the meal. Just be sure to buy enough. They’re available at many fine wine retailers.

The first is the 2006 Château Thivin en Beaujolais Côte de Brouilly from winemaker Claude Geoffray in Beaujolais ($18 to $22). It pours out a vivid raspberry color and has a scent reminiscent of the berries too. The fruit is bright and lush, with a nice tartness, yet this is no simple Beaujolais. It has structure and grip, and enough complexity to keep your interest glass after glass.

The 2005 Moric Blaufränkisch ($20 to $22) from Burgenland in eastern Austria has enough stuff to match any course in the intricate holiday meal. Stump all the wine aficionados at the table with this superb example from the Moric line of wines by Roland Velich, a Burgundy-obsessed producer who is showing that the ancient Blaufränkisch grape (known as Lemberger in Washington State and Kekfrankos in Hungary) can produce fascinating reds in white wine country. Very similar to Pinot Noir, this Blaufränkisch has a beautiful aroma of berries and sweet spices coupled with lean, elegant fruit. This wine is alive: Taste the way it changes in the glass.

From Tony Soter, a longtime star in the Napa Valley, and his team at Etude comes this 2005 Fortitude Luvisi Very Old Vine Zinfandel ($17 to $20). It’s restrained and almost feminine in character, with hints of strawberry, red currant and spice. Beautifully balanced, this is a Zin from old vines you can love for its grace and elegance. Bring on the turkey!