THE GOSSIPING GOURMET: Talented new chef makes restaurant shine

Like the stock market, Sorrento Grille has had its ups and downs over the years, but now it is definitely up, up, up and we are bullish on the new executive chef, Ryan Adams, who arrived early this summer.

Sorrento has an attractive contemporary décor, but the acoustics leave something to be desired. We usually prefer dining upstairs in a booth, where it’s a bit quieter; however, this time at the suggestion of our hostess, we sat at a tall table next to the fireplace in the corner by the window. We found this nook quite pleasant and for some reason, not as noisy.

While maintaining the style of menu that has always been traditional at Sorrento Grille, Ryan has reformulated it with a distinctive touch that makes almost every dish we have tasted a winner.

For instance, the last time we ate there about a year ago, before he arrived, we ordered a pork chop, which was big but tough and was accompanied by ordinary mashed potatoes, as were many of the entrées. We were really not excited about coming back, but recently we were enticed by the report of a new chef who came highly recommended.

This time the pork chop was perhaps the best we have ever come across.

The 20-ounce Kurobuta chop, on the bone, was at least two-inches thick but unbelievably tender and moist and finished with a slightly sweet glaze. The chop rested on little cubes of spiced kabocha squash and apples, providing the gently sweet contrast that goes so well with pork. On the side were more yummy cubes “” savory, crunchy little potatoes.

The Pacific Rim seafood bowl is like bouillabaisse born in Bangkok with lemongrass, ginger and, most prominently, Thai chili, creating a delicious spicy pool of lobster broth swimming with shrimps, scallops, clams, mussels and chunks of sea bass. Each and every type of seafood was perfectly fresh and perfectly cooked, and each added their juices to provide depth and flavor to the wonderful, heady concoction.

The thing that has really transformed this menu is the chef’s way with sauces. Seared halibut was served in a fabulous citrus vanilla lobster jus. Without using a lot of butter or any cream, Ryan achieved a surprising level of richness with the unexpected but satisfying addition of vanilla to take over where the butter left off. It was impeccably paired with the moist delicate fish. Bits of lobster and tender leeks, gnocchi and sugar snap peas brought the dish to a mouthwatering conclusion.

We were anything but dismayed when gnocchi appeared as the side dish with the halibut because we had already shared it as an appetizer yet we were still craving more of these plump little pillows.

These were far and away the lightest and tastiest gnocchi we have ever encountered, while still retaining a satisfying toothiness. They were enhanced by a light Gorgonzola cream sauce. An abundance of bright green crunchy asparagus punctuated with pistachios frolicked between the dumplings. Although this dish is considered an appetizer, it could easily serve as a main course.

Their chicken entrée now appears as rosemary “bricked” natural chicken in smoked garlic jus with chipotle cheddar potatoes and green beans. Tuna is crusted in herb salt and accompanied by crème fraiche polenta with picholine olive and caper relish.

Our two appetizers were somewhat disappointing. The ceviche was composed of shrimp, lobster and avocado with segments of grapefruit. It was served with excellent homemade corn chips, which are always a nice way to scoop up ceviche. Although the seafood was very fresh, it was tossed together with a bland tomato salsa that lacked character and heat. The grapefruit segments, which should have provided elements of sweetness and acidity, did neither. Sweeter grapefruit cut in smaller pieces might have gotten the job done “” something is needed to lift this dish out of the doldrums.

The wood-grilled artichoke is a holdover from the old menu. Small and dry, it didn’t have much “meat” on it. The only flavor came from the horseradish, Dijon, black pepper aioli dipping sauce.

One of the new appetizers is kampachi sashimi with hot, sizzling, sesame citrus vinaigrette. If you like something spicy, try shrimp Diablo, flamed with tequila, chipotles, tomatoes and Dijon mustard.

Most of the desserts are ice cream-based except for the apple tart and the crème brulée. The signature dessert is the Avalanche, a warm souffléd chocolate brownie with ice cream, caramel, chocolate sauce and peanut brittle (followed by a day at the gym). On the lighter side is mango sorbet with blackberries and amaretto cookie crumbles.

The apple tart is more like a cobbler than a tart but everyone is playing fast and loose with these terms nowadays although in our opinion, a tart must have a pastry bottom and no top crust. But quibbling aside, this dessert of cooked apples with a streusel topping was quite good. In particular, the crumbly crown was good ‘n’ crunchy while the flavorful apples retained their texture and were not overly sweetened.

An exciting opportunity awaits you if you call Sorrento Grille 24 hours in advance and ask Ryan to prepare a special menu for you, mentioning anything that you don’t like to eat. He will do the California cuisine equivalent of a Japanese omakase (chef’s choice) dinner. Be kind and do not ask for this on a busy Saturday night.

The re-structuring of Culinary Adventures, a former David Wilhelm enterprise, has resulted in the closing of some restaurants but the revitalization and re-invention of others, like the ones in Laguna Beach; with their new chefs, both Sorrento Grill and French 75 are now better than ever.

IF YOU GO

WHAT: Sorrento Grille, (949) 494-8686, www.culinary adventures.com

WHERE: 370 Glenneyre St.

WHEN: 5 to 9 p.m. Sunday and Monday

5 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday

5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday

PRICES:

Appetizers: $10 to $19

Entrées: $18 to $42

Desserts: $8 to $12

WINE:

Bottles: $30 to $302

Half-bottles: $39 to $62

Carafes: $12 to $35

By the glass: $8 to $23

Corkage Fee: $15

ELLE HARROW and TERRY MARKOWITZ owned a la Carte for 20 years and can be reached at [email protected].