THE GOSSIPING GOURMET: Edge to breathtaking food at The Cliff

Intrepid alimentary explorers that we are, we have just discovered a restaurant that few natives have ever happened upon, and what a find! Nestled behind Laguna Village, it clings to the cliff just up the hill from the Hotel Laguna.

There has always been a small sandwich place here with a breathtaking view at the back of this rambling collection of shops; but a little more than a year ago, it came under new ownership and was significantly remodeled. The dining “room” at The Cliff is completely outdoors, as is the cocktail area around a fire pit in the center of the retail area. Only the bar is indoors.

As we were seated at a table on the large terrace, we were mightily impressed with the decor: azure sky tinged with dusky pink, turquoise water frosted with white foam and beige sand dotted with pearl gray rocks.

The Cliff has a casual dining menu with a nice variety of choices. It was our pleasant and helpful waitress Rebecca who told us the restaurant was under new ownership and was also catering weddings on the lower oceanfront terrace.

With the sunset hanging on the “wall” as a backdrop, we contemplated the menu and simultaneously said, “What about those scallops wasabi?” Ordered individually, each small raw scallop was served with a touch of soy sauce, presented on the half shell and draped with seaweed salad, a sliver of pickled ginger and a dab of wasabi cream. A squeeze of lemon on top of this little bit of heaven provided the last element in this savory blend of salty, sour, spicy and creamy flavors. What a pleasant surprise!

Among the large entree salads was butter lettuce with pears, pecans and cranberries. You have your choice of dressings but the raspberry vinaigrette is the perfect partner. Cold poached salmon comes with baby red potatoes, cucumbers and avocados. There is southwest chicken and a Chinese chicken. Seafood appears in the crab Louie and the grilled shrimp salad. The latter comes with a skewer of five well-spiced, delectable grilled shrimp, half of a thinly sliced avocado, fresh corn and chopped tomatoes in a perky mix of spring greens. Everything tasted very fresh and just right for a warm summer evening.

Chef’s specialties include three steaks, one of which is a New York with Gorgonzola. The chicken roulade is stuffed with spinach, sun-dried tomatoes, pine nuts and feta cheese in champagne cream sauce. There is a Kung Pao chicken and that old standard, chicken Oscar. Here, chicken is substituted for veal in this classic dish. A nicely grilled moist breast was topped with asparagus spears and crabmeat, then finished with béarnaise sauce. All of it was tasty except the sauce. This one separated, creating an overly greasy taste. Also, it lacked the tart kick and creamy mouth-feel of a good bearnaise.

With the soft tacos, you have a choice of fish, shrimp or calamari. We went for two fish and one calamari. They were served with a pleasant, mild, house-made salsa and finely shredded cabbage. The calamari was very tender and flavorful. Regrettably, the thin pieces of fish, though well seasoned, were somewhat dry.

Other seafood entrees are calamari steak, halibut with mango papaya salsa or provençal style and brochette of fish and shrimp with a ginger glaze. Salmon is served with a balsamic reduction and fresh strawberries.

All of the above entrees come with a choice of potatoes or rice and vegetables. Trying to maintain our girlish figures, we opted for all veggies. In this case, it was no sacrifice. Delicious wedges of zucchini and summer squash were brushed with olive oil and herbs, then grilled to a slightly crunchy finish that made them irresistible.

In the pasta department, you will find fettuccine or tortellini with Alfredo sauce, cheese ravioli with hearty meat sauce, penne with five cheeses, penne with sun-dried tomatoes or a simple angel hair with fresh tomatoes. Chicken or shrimp can be added to any pasta for an extra charge.

You can also get a beef, turkey, veggie or chicken burger served with soup or salad, and fries or fruit. At the end of the meal, a tray of four very attractive desserts was presented. That evening there was a tiramisu, wrapped in a ribbon of dark chocolate, a mango mousse cake also chocolate wrapped and a raspberry cake with a white chocolate band.

Crème brûlée cheesecake was topped with melted caramel. We were not sure why it was called crème brûlée , since it didn’t have the flavor of custard nor the crisp burnt sugar topping.

The spectacular location certainly merits a drink and appetizers and the view will knock the socks off out-of-town guests; but we think you will enjoy their menu as well.

One caveat, even though there are outdoor heaters and we were toasty warm on a summer evening, nights in Laguna are cool and we recommend a warm jacket for later on in the year. Because The Cliff does not take reservations except for large parties, you may want to call on a particularly chilly or windy evening to make sure they are actually open since they have to close during inclement weather.

Last week they resumed “Wine Wednesday” when all bottles of wine are half price, all day.