Dining Review

Stephen Santacroce

One of the things I miss since I moved here from the East Coast is the

good, old-fashioned neighborhood pub. The transient nature of Southern

California isn’t conducive to corner bars, and in areas where zoning laws

prohibit one from leaving a garage door open for more than three hours,

it’s hard to imagine opening a bar on the street corner.

What a shame.

A true pub is more than just a bar -- it’s a place for friends to hang

out after work and have a pint or two while grabbing a hearty bite to

eat. A far cry from the pick-up club scene that seems to be the norm

today, where well-dressed patrons circle the room like sharks around a

shipwreck, pubs seem to have an almost family atmosphere.

Gary “Skosh” Monahan certainly knows something about running a pub.

After moving to Costa Mesa from Northern California, where he got his

start bartending at family outings, Monahan opened Henry and Harry’s Goat

Hill Tavern. The “Goat,” as it’s known, features more than 100 beers on

tap and can always be counted on for a good time.

Taking an interest in politics (after the city tried to shut down the

“Goat”), Monahan served on the City Council and is now the mayor of Costa

Mesa. No more permit problems.

Skosh Monahan’s, occupying the former Newport Rib Co. site, is

Monahan’s latest venture, and it drips Irish pub from the moment you walk

in.

The decor is dark wood and green leather, with beer company logo

mirrors adorning the walls. A TV over the bar is tuned to the sporting

event du jour, and I suspect Monahan’s will be a popular spot during

football season.

Although beer and spirits are obviously the feature at Skosh’s,

Monahan wisely knows the importance of good pub food. We’re not talking

gourmet or trendy here -- no drizzled sauces or fancy garnish. Just

steaks, chops and some old favorites like corned beef and cabbage or lamb

stew.

Of course, any good pub needs a variety of appetizers to munch on

while sharpening your darts, and Monahan’s obliges. Start off with some

tavern fries ($4), crispy, thick-cut potato slices that are fried about

as perfectly as I’ve had, crisp on the outside with a soft, moist center.

They’re served with malt vinegar, but ketchup is available, as well.

The grilled artichoke ($6.50) is good -- it’s steamed first and then

thrown over the flame to add a nice charred flavor. It comes with a tangy

mayonnaise and a handful of the tavern fries. I was surprised to see

fries served with an artichoke, but it didn’t stop us from eating all of

them.

Skosh is a nickname Monahan picked up when he was younger. It means “a

little bit,” as in, “I’ll have just a skosh more.” Well, you wouldn’t

refer to the entrees here as getting just a skosh; Monahan serves

portions guaranteed to satisfy the hungriest pub-crawler.

The steaks are thick and cooked just right. The filet mignon ($24.95)

is a 10 oz. prime filet wrapped in bacon to add extra flavor. It’s served

with a caramelized shallot sauce that adds a nice sweetness to the tender

beef and smoky bacon. A smaller, 6 oz. portion can be had for $18.95,

without the bacon.

The lamb stew ($10.50) is a traditional favorite. Chunks of lamb are

cooked slowly in a savory tomato-based sauce with vegetables and herbs

and served over a bed of garlicky mashed potatoes. Good comfort food

that’s begging to be washed down with a pint of stout.

The braised half chicken is a bargain at $12.50. An obviously well-fed

bird is cooked so that the skin is crispy and golden (it actually seemed

roasted rather than braised to me) and served with a medley of roasted

vegetables. The meat is flavorful, though mine was on the dry side the

last time I tried it.

Probably my favorite dish, and the best bargain on the menu, is the

lamb culotte steak ($15.95). A hearty center-cut steak of lamb loin is

grilled with a cabernet glaze and served with either pub fries or garlic

mashed potatoes. Go with the mashed potatoes and enjoy this flavorful,

tender cut that would cost twice as much at many restaurants.

Of course no self-respecting pub would be caught dead without fish and

chips ($9.95), and Monahan’s is no exception. Mild white filets are

fried in batter made with Harp beer and served with the traditional pub

fries and a tangy homemade tartar sauce. I half-expected them to be

served wrapped in newspaper, London style, but then Monahan’s got the

Health Department to worry about. No wait, he’s the mayor -- I’ll bet he

could get away with it.

My only disappointment at Skosh Monahan’s was the desserts. A

chocolate cake with cappuccino sauce ($5) obviously came right out of the

refrigerator and lacked the moist freshness I was expecting. The apple

cobbler ($5) has a healthy portion of fruit flavored with cinnamon and

topped with ice cream, but where was the cobbler crust? At least on mine

it was virtually nonexistent.

Monahan likes to boast that Skosh Monahan’s serves the spirit of St.

Patrick’s Day every day, and I’m not going to disagree. The atmosphere is

relaxed and casual, the beer is served cold from taps that never run dry,

and the food is plentiful and good.

Stop by with some friends, hoist a pint, and regale each other with

tall tales of the one that got away (I’m referring to fish, not

significant others). If you’re looking for a place to have a good time

and a satisfying bite to eat, you won’t be disappointed.

STEPHEN SANTACROCE’s dining reviews appear every other Thursday. Send

him your comments at [email protected].

WHAT: Skosh Monahan’s

WHERE: 2000 Newport Blvd., Newport Beach

WHEN: 4 p.m. to midnight Monday through Saturday; 10 a.m. to midnight

Sunday

HOW MUCH: Moderate

PHONE: (949) 548-0099