Dining Review

Kathy Mader

In America, we like bigger, better and faster. We’re talking about a

country that knows the difference between an Internet log-on time of

.0008 and .008; people that generally appreciate the “fast” in fast food

more than the food itself.

Autobistro, at the end of auto row on Pacific Coast Highway, was

conceived by owner Jonathan Rodriguez-Atkatz with the plan to offer fast

and good food. Hence the “auto,” as in fast, and the “bistro,” as in

tasty, gourmet food.

This concept comes with a 21st century twist that makes for an

interesting drive through this drive-through restaurant. The restaurant

is actually above you, an idea that Rodriguez-Atkatz and his architect

developed to fully utilize the lot and solve potential parking and

traffic problems. You pull up to the ordering booth and actually speak

with a person and then drive on to find your order transported down on

dumbwaiters -- the electronic kind, silly.

It is so unique that you expect to see the Jetsons hovering somewhere in

line picnicking on personal pizzas and turkey pot pies. While you are

looking for George and his boy Elroy, peruse the menu.

AutoBistro uses the slogan Food From Above, and with this kind of setup,

it is literally just that. While the new colors of AutoBistro are a

bright gold and maroon, you won’t confuse this restaurant with any other

drive-through. With its space-age look and its healthy and creative menu

choices, this isn’t your average hamburger joint.

While there is a Bistroburger on the menu ($4.95), hamburgers are not the

main draw. AutoBistro’s main draw is that it provides healthier, fresher

and a more varied menu than other fast-food drive-throughs. Everything is

prepared to order, which instantly sets it apart from other “on the go”

restaurants.

Caesar salad ($4.45), sesame peanut noodle salad ($5.55) and several

others are available for the low-carb dieters. We tried the Chinese

chicken salad ($6.95), which was enough for two as an appetizer. The

veggies were fresh and crisp, though the dressing could have used a

little more zing for my taste.

Bistro sandwiches like the grilled-chicken focaccia ($4.95), the roast

beef focaccia sandwich ($4.95), and the classic caprese sandwich ($4.95)

-- thickly sliced mozzarella, Roma tomatoes, fresh basil and olive oil --

are some of the most popular items on the menu and a far cry from a flat

hamburger under a heat lamp. The bread on these sandwiches is always

served warm, which again, is not always true for the drive-through

hamburger.

My friend Leslie, who frequents the AutoBistro regularly, orders her

favorite: the smoked ham and Swiss ($4.95) on a rustica roll with

chipotle mayonnaise. Her husband, Lance, would say the main draw is the

Bistro chips ($1.25), vinegar and salt thickly sliced potato chips that

alone make the drive worthwhile.

A tuna salad pita and a chicken Caesar pita round out the sandwiches. Two

hot entrees that definitely stand out for a drive-through are the penne

pomodoro ($6.45) and the turkey pot pie ($8.65). The turkey pot pie has a

puff pastry crust and was served piping hot. Although a shade salty, I

would order this again.

Personal pizzas are available and rather inexpensive. We tried the Thai

chicken pizza ($6.45); barbecue chicken, tomato and basil, and your

classic cheese and pepperoni are other options.

AutoBistro’s goal is to cater to more sophisticated tastes, but even the

most sophisticated people can appreciate a good brownie. Cookie bites,

apple tarts and fresh fruit can also cure the sweet tooth and AutoBistro

has them. Just reading the breakfast menu will bring us back to

AutoBistro.

Smoothies, fresh baked scones, muffins and cinnamon rolls, several

quiches, and smoked ham and cheese scramble pitas sound too good not to

try.

If the whole concept of gourmet fast food served from above still seems

to foreign to you, log on to autobistro.com and take an interactive tour.

You can even order ahead and speed up the already speedy process. Go on,

give it a try.

In the creation of AutoBistro, Rodriguez-Atkatz tried to provide the

answer to this question, “When was the last time you were proud of your

fast food purchase?” Just think about that. Proud of fast food?

Revolutionary. In the spirit of this country itself, we will wait and see

if a restaurant so conceived can long endure.

WHAT: AutoBistro

WHERE: 3100 West Coast Highway, Newport Beach

WHEN: 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. every day

HOW MUCH: Moderate

PHONE: (949) 515-9060

ON THE WEB: www.autobistro.com