DINING OUT -- Mary Furr

A dedicated fisher has a secret spot where the fish always bite. A

dedicated fish lover is the same -- knowing where fresh fish are broiled

to perfection.

This is the Catch of the Day, tucked in a single store front of a strip

mall near Goldenwest Street and Edinger Avenue in Huntington Beach.

In 13 years, owner-chef John Metz and his faithful assistant Isack Ramos

have kept the menu stocked with in-season fish like this summer’s

halibut-on-a-skewer, ($10.95), a lean fish with oil concentrated in the

liver rather than the flesh, and a fat content of about 2.5 %.

These are really big fish pieces, nearly the size of a deck of cards,

laced between green pepper, basted with lemon butter and charbroiled. The

mild tasting halibut’s firm, white flesh flakes with the touch of a fork.

Served over a tasty rice pilaf, with long, thick strips of carrot and

zucchini, it would be hard to find a healthier dish as tempting.

Either a red or white chowder, or salad, comes with lunch and dinner. The

slightly spicy red is a mix of fish in a vegetable medley, lots of

tomato, celery, carrots and green peppers, while the white is strictly

clam, thick with onions and thankfully not overloaded with potatoes.

A grilled Pacific sole ($8.95) is the most tender of fillets. Two

flatfish pieces are very lightly breaded and grilled to a golden brown.

It’s a delicate fish with a mild flavor, perfect with the homemade tartar

sauce. Fish at Catch of the Day is prepared with professional perfection,

yet hasn’t lost the individuality of home style cooking.

The menu is extensive and varied, with soup and salad ($4.95-$8.45) and

sandwiches ($5.95-$7.45).

A very popular choice is the deep sea burger ($6.75), with cole slaw.

It’s a big, thick halibut fillet, served on a toasted hamburger bun with

cheese, tomato and lettuce smeared with tartar sauce. What a great

combination and a chance to substitute fish for meat.

Try some other original combinations, like a Baja shrimp melt ($6.45),

yardarm ($5.95), an all-vegetable on dark squaw bread or skipper ($7.45),

a Cajun-spiced, blackened swordfish on a toasted bun.

Three ice cream pies ($3.50), made on premises, are huge slices cut from

a mold. Mud pie on a chocolate cookie crust has jamoca almond fudge ice

cream, topped with a thick ruffle of whipped cream and drizzled with

chocolate syrup. There’s a turtle pie, with praline’n’cream ice cream,

and grasshopper with mint chip ice cream on chocolate cookie crust.

Simple and deliciously rich cool.

You’ll say, as did Flip Wilson’s character, Geraldine, “The devil made me

do it,” while you’re eating it.

Mary Furr is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have comments or

suggestions for her, call (562) 493-5062.

Catch of the Day

Where: 6854 Edinger Ave., Huntington Beach.

Hours: Lunch, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., Monday through Friday, dinner 4 to 9:30

p.m., Monday-Friday, Saturday and Sunday, 4-9 p.m. Serves: Wine and 35

microbrews.

Call: (714) 841-5472.