Pumpkin meets citrus in a drizzle cake that’s perfect for fall in L.A.

The day after Labor Day, I delight in going to my local grocery store to see the giant displays of pumpkins and winter squashes parked outside the entrance. Even though it’s still 90 degrees here, the corporate seasonal shift will not be stopped. Though I laugh at its absurdity, a part of me also kinda loves it. Autumn is the one time of year in Southern California when I wish the seasons worked like they do in so many other places, where fall means cool weather. Those banal orange pumpkins offer a glimmer of hope.

And in my kitchen, the same sentiment rings true. It’s hot, and I shouldn’t turn my oven on, but all I want to do is bake up a spiced pumpkin loaf like the ones that signal “fall� in cafes and bakeries around the country. They’re tender and comforting, and I just love their muted orange color. And though I’ve developed recipes for them in the past, this year I wanted to make my ultimate pumpkin loaf cake, but one that had a little warm-weather twist to fit the unique SoCal season. I also wanted a recipe I could turn to and use as a base for endless experimentation year after year.

A pumpkin loaf is one of my favorite baked goods, but it can sometimes get overwhelmed with spices, which can overtake the flavor of the pumpkin. But doing away with the spices completely yields a somewhat bland pumpkin cake that doesn’t hit the same notes. You need the cinnamon and nutmeg there to bring out the essence of the pumpkin — as any PSL fan knows well. So instead of omitting them, I reduced the traditional amount of spices enough so they still matter without getting lost.

And to help add the flavor that the spices usually provide on their own, I took inspiration from another favorite cake: lemon drizzle cake. A classic lemon-zest-infused British cake, it’s doused with a tart lemon syrup, then glazed with lemon icing. The triple lemon application really nails the flavor, cutting through all the butter and sugar for a balanced dessert.

So I decided to apply that same technique to my base pumpkin loaf. Instead of mixing sugar with lemon juice for the syrup, though, I mixed maple syrup with fresh orange juice and a little lemon juice. The slight bitterness of the maple syrup is a great balance to all the sweetness and — bonus — has a more fall vibe. Plus, the orange juice adds a freshness that pairs well with pumpkin. The syrup adds a hit of SoCal citrus brightness to an often spice-heavy cake.

Once the loaves come out of the oven — the recipe makes two loaves because I hate using any amount of pumpkin puree that’s less than the whole can — I spoon the tart-sweet syrup over the top, letting it slowly soak into the crumb, saturating its flavor through the heat of the cake to the very bottom.

And though it may seem like gilding the lily, I add icing as well. But I use the same principles from the syrup for the glaze, mixing maple syrup with powdered sugar to form a thick icing that I then thin just enough with fresh lemon juice to help cut through the sugar. You can leave off the glaze if you want, but I love it for its ability to transform a bakery staple into a thrilling dessert.

And though it’s definitely dessert-worthy, I often eat a slice of the loaf for breakfast, my favorite time for cake. Taken with a cup of hot coffee, it’s the perfect pumpkin cake, full of spice and pumpkin essence brightened with citrus and accented with warming maple syrup. Though I may be sweating while I eat it, it gives me that ideal fall feeling to tide me over until the temperatures here actually sync up with everywhere else.

Get the recipe:

Pumpkin Maple Drizzle Cakes

Time 1 hour 45 minutes, plus cooling

Yields Makes two 9-by-5-inch loaves