The Review: Water Grill

Charcoal-grilled Greek black bream is served filleted and whole.   (Brian van der Brug / Los Angeles Times)

New chef Damon Gordon is a Brit who’s worked at Quarter Kitchen at the Andaz hotel in San Diego and in New York at Mix and Hotel Gansevoort.   (Brian van der Brug / Los Angeles Times)

Fried seafood dishes, such as the fritto misto appetizer, are a strength of the new kitchen.   (Brian van der Brug / Los Angeles Times)

Water Grill’s take on fish and chips is made with wild Atlantic cod and thick-cut fried potatoes.   (Brian van der Brug / Los Angeles Times)

Chefs (photographed through wine glasses) work in an open kitchen. Water Grill is owned by the King brothers, who own several other area restaurants.   (Brian van der Brug / Los Angeles Times)

The revised restaurant is designed to appeal to a wider range of diners.   (Brian van der Brug / Los Angeles Times)

Chilled seafood platters, such as this chilled Oregon Dungeness crab, are generous for the price.   (Brian van der Brug / Los Angeles Times)

Today’s Water Grill is more a straightforward seafood house rather than a fine dining restaurant.   (Brian van der Brug / Los Angeles Times)

For starters, a deconstructed wild Mexican shrimp Louie salad.  (Brian van der Brug / Los Angeles Times)