Superb brews from gorgeous beans

Until you sit down and taste them side by side, it’s hard to believe how wide a range of flavors it is possible to find in coffee. The Times Tasting Panel met last week to taste some highly regarded coffees, including single-origin beans and blends, from local and national roasters. Joining me on the panel were restaurant critic S. Irene Virbila, staff writer Amy Scattergood, food editor Leslie Brenner, test kitchen director Donna Deane and Heidi Rasmussen, quality assurance manager for Illy Caffé North America. Coffees are listed in alphabetical order.

Amante “Amalfi Dark Roast.� Intense, inviting chocolate and licorice aromas; light body with sweet nutty flavors, slightly earthy; short lemony finish. Available from www.amantecoffee.com; $12.95 per pound.

Antigua Coffee House “Guatemala Antigua Medium Roast.� Deep aromas of dried sour cherries and chocolate; medium body with chocolate and earth flavors; spicy, slightly grassy finish. 4836 Huntington Drive S., Los Angeles; (323) 539-2233 or www.antiguacoffeehouse.com; $11 per pound.

Coffee Klatch “Ethiopian Hache.� Sweet and fruity aroma with some blueberry notes; medium body with bright citrus flavor and hint of caramel; bright lemony finish. Very nice, well-balanced coffee. Available at various Coffee Klatch locations and www.klatchroasting.com; $12.95 per pound.

Groundwork “Panama Esmerelda Especial.� Intensely attractive aroma of pure blueberry essence with a touch of mango; light body with sweet blueberry flavor, very little traditional coffee flavor. Unconventional, expensive coffee from a special auction selection. Available at various Groundwork locations or lacoffee.com; $150 per pound.

Intelligentsia Coffee “Berkeley’s Blend.� Deep aromas of hazelnuts and caramel; medium body with tart, lively flavors and a slight earthiness; a little balancing bitterness in the finish. Available at www.intelligentsiacoffee.com; $11.95 per pound.

Jones Coffee Roasters “Ethiopian Yrga Cheffe.� Very pretty floral, citrusy nose; medium body with lively acidity and caramel flavors; slight balancing bitterness in the finish. An assertive, well-balanced coffee. 537 S. Raymond Ave., Pasadena; (626) 564-9291 or www.thebestcoffee.com; $12 per pound.

Kéan Coffee “Guatemalan Maya Ixill Co-op.� Citrus and cinnamon aromas; light body with an almost overwhelmingly lemony flavor; short lemony finish. 2043 Westcliff Drive, Suite 100, Newport Beach; (949) 642-5326 or www.keancoffee.com; $13.25 per pound.

— Russ Parsons