Pork chop feasts at L.A.-area restaurants

My husband loves to tell the story of a restaurant in Brooklyn, N.Y., where, in his memory, a huge pork chop was served with a knife sticking out of it. And while he dug into that chop, a crescendo of arguing and cursing issued from the kitchen. Apparently one of the cooks had suddenly realized he was missing something important. I love a good pork chop, preferably without the raging argument. And I’ve never yet had one served with a knife plunged into its center. Maybe L.A. is just a bit more civilized than that Brooklyn of long ago.

Chi Spacca

How many of the massive 42-ounce tomahawk pork chops does chef Chad Colby go through in a week at the meat-centric Chi Spacca? Folks at every other table are gnawing on the bone, presented alongside the heritage pork heavily marbled with sweet fat. Each bite has a slightly different texture, a little char here, particularly juicy meat there. Dusted with fennel pollen, it is a magnificent, utterly delicious chop (enough for four to share). Enjoy it with creamed corn, maybe some shelling beans or other vegetable dishes on offer. And to start, have the focaccia de recco, of course.

6610 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 297-1133, www.chispacca.com. Tomahawk pork chop, $85.

Jar

Suzanne Tracht has been making this pork chop since forever at her smart, ever-reliable midtown restaurant. Her char siu chop is Berkshire pork, a luscious double-cut chop with a complex sweet-salty marinade soaked deep into the meat. It arrives on the plate all on its lonesome, the better to appreciate every bite. You might want to order sautéed pea tendrils or duck fried rice on the side. And start with sumptuous crab and shrimp cakes. For dessert, make it the classic ice cream sundae with toasted almonds, generous enough to share, served with caramel and chocolate sauces in pitchers.

8225 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 655-6566, thejar.com. Char siu pork chop, $28.

Salt’s Cure

I like to sit at the counter at Salt’s Cure and watch Chris Phelps grill that Berkshire pork chop with the long bone. Though he doesn’t brine it, the chop comes juicy, a little char here, a caramelized edge there, rosy at the center. Before he serves it, he ladles a little of his magic jus laced with lots of sweet onions on top of the meat. The chop comes with rustic applesauce, but you also want to order the simple, perfect sautéed Swiss chard and most definitely the mashed potatoes, smooth and creamy. You taste just the butter and the potato.

7494 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, (323) 850-7258, saltscure.com. Berkshire pork chop, $32.

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