Jonathan Gold reviews Shiki

Sunchoke tofu is on the menu at Shiki Beverly Hills.

Awabi tempura (abalone) and celery roots leaf tempura with salt and lemon at Shiki Beverly Hills.

Zensai, a vegetable sushi appetizer made from local farmers’ market ingredients, consists of black radish, second from right, and winter radish, in red, both pickled in house, along with blanched nanohana (greens with yellow flower) and celtuce with karashi miso.

The varieties of sushi offered at Shiki include, from left, mirugai, sayori, buri, kohada and tai kobujime sea bream.

Chef Morihiro Onodera cuts celtuce for the vegetable sushi appetizer called zensai at Shiki Beverly Hills.

Chef Morihiro Onodera puts the final touches on a plate of sushi at Shiki Beverly Hills.

Nao Sugiyama, a kaiseki specialist, makes a bowl of wagyu beef tataki at Shiki Beverly Hills, where he is a chef and the owner.

Chefs Morihiro Onodera, left, and Nao Sugiyama came together to revamp the menu at Shiki Beverly Hills. Sugiyama, a kaiseki specialist, owns the restaurant.