Jonathan Gold reviews Playa Amor
Pescado zarandeado, a 1.5-to-2-pound striped bass, cilantro, red onion, lemon, garlic, smoky chipotle, pico de gallo, corn tortillas, rice and beans.
(Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times )Beef short rib birria, with charred carrots, caramelized onion rings, roasted tomato chile broth, cilantro, corn tortillas, rice and beans.
(Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)New Mexico green Hatch spaghetti, with garlic cream, Hatch chile, chives and pecorino cheese.
(Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times )Chile relleno burger, with Angus beef blend, cheese-stuffed Anaheim chile, remoulade, red leaf, tomato, grilled onion on a brioche bun.
(Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)Pork belly tacos, with grilled onion, chipotle, aji verde, cilantro, mint, chile lime peanuts and cotija.
(Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)Mole tot poutine, with tater tots, mole negro, queso, crema, cilantro, radish and onions.
(Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)Fresh corn tortillas are made in front of diners.
(Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)Estilo Puerto Nuevo lobster, a roasted 1-to-1.25-pound Maine lobster, pico de gallo, clarified butter, chipotle salsa, rice, beans and fresh flour tortillas.
(Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)Churros with salted caramel.
(Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)The mango con chile cocktail, with Sauza blue silver tequila, mango purée, limeade, agave chamoy, chile powder, infused salt rim and mango candy.
(Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)Ceviche mixto, with fresh Albacore, bay scallops, Mexican white shrimp, pico de gallo, citrus juice, guacamole, roasted garlic aioli, cabbage, cotija and corn tostadas.
(Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)A variety of plates, including Puerto Nuevo-style lobster, center.
(Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)The Playa margarita, with Silver tequila, limeade, agave, pineapple juice, orange liqueur, orange and lime muddle and infused salt rim.
(Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)Chef Thomas Ortega, left, and lifelong friend and business partner Todd Tsujioka are seen at Playa Amor in Long Beach.
(Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)A look inside Playa Amor.
(Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)