In sort of a take on Japanese chirashi, ripe avocado is layered over salt cod-infused cream, which is layered over sushi rice. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
Dessert usually involves some kind of homemade ice cream. Here, tonka bean ice cream is served with berries, hibiscus and Szechwan peppercorn. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
Bone marrow custard is topped with fresh peas and crispy shallots. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
Chef Ludovic Lefebvre makes a main dish out of slightly undercooked Weiser Family Farms potatoes passed through a ricer directly onto a plate of brown butter, onion soubise and Salers cheese from the Auvergne, then sprinkled with dried Japanese bonito flakes. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
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Chef Ludovic Lefebvre runs the restaurant in collaboration with Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo of Animal. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
Cook Ryan Wong works in the open kitchen. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
Chef Ludovic Lefebvre, right, works in the open kitchen with Ryan Wong. The restaurant is in a former Raffallo’s Pizza. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
Beautiful earthenware bowls and dishes are used at the restaurant. It’s a tough place to get into. Seatings are possible only with reservations made, and purchased, in advance. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
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Douglas Rankin, chef de cuisine, plates a dessert. The menu changes each night. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
Beer and wine are served. The price of drinks, however, is not included in the $75 fixed-price ticket for the multi-course tasting menu. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)