Bring your appetite

PRINCEVILLE, KAUAI â€”  High-end restaurants abound on the lush, tropical shores of Kauai, as do high-end meal prices. So here we go again, catching the aloha spirit as we dine our way through the Garden Isle, searching for great meal deals.

We teamed up with local food experts to bring you 20 Kauai meals for less than $20, just as we did in our recent surveys of Oahu and Maui.

Kauai presents a real challenge to travelers on a budget: Food costs are higher in the outer islands than on Oahu, so it’s more difficult to stick to a $20 budget here. But our restaurant survey will help you do just that -- and you’ll have a cultural experience as well.

Once again, we concentrated on the restaurants that locals patronize. Many offer inexpensive, traditional Hawaiian fare, others specialize in ethnic cuisines or American standards. Several are low-key diners or takeout stands. But we also included a couple of splurge restaurants where the ambience is pure tropical paradise and the prices still affordable.

Chefs Martina Hilldorfer and William Gibson of the Culinary Arts Program at Kauai Community College were our main sources of information, and we thank them for their assistance.

And, travelers, please note that some of the restaurants are hard to find. Always call ahead for hours and directions.

1. Red Hot Mama’s

Price: $5 to $11.50

Scoping it out: Touring the island? Before you hit the Napali Coast, pick up a snack at Red Hot Mama’s in the far north corner of Kauai, almost at the point where Kuhio Highway fades away into the cliffs. This hole-in-the-wall stand, next to Wainiha General Store, features fresh-Mex burritos and tacos to go, with an emphasis on organic foods.

We loved . . . big chunks of chicken and beef in the burritos.

We didn’t love . . . the grumpy kitchen staff.

Red Hot Mama’s, 56607 Kuhio Highway (Route 56), Wainiha; (808) 826-7266.

2. Tahiti Nui

Restaurant & Bar

Price: $7 to $20

Scoping it out: This Hanalei old-timer looks like a South Pacific dive -- tatamis stapled to the walls, carved-tiki bar stools, a faint smell of humid air when you walk inside -- but it’s a longtime locals’ favorite. Tahiti native Auntie Louise Marston opened the restaurant/bar nearly half a century ago; since her death six years ago, her son Christian has been running the place. There’s live Hawaiian music nightly, so drop by, try the sear-crusted ono or smoked ribs, and pretend you’ve just dropped anchor in Papeete, Tahiti.

We loved . . . the local color.

We didn’t love . . . slow service.

Tahiti Nui/Restaurant & Bar, 55134 Kuhio Highway, Hanalei; (808) 826-6277, www.thenui.com.

3. Polynesia Cafe

Price: $7.95 to $16.95

Scoping it out: If you’re hooked on ahi, you’ll love the Polynesia Cafe, where it’s prepared seven ways, including ahi with pesto and ahi blackened. This open-air cafe also offers giant burgers, salads, tofu dishes and sandwiches. You order at a counter, then dine on a raised outdoor platform. Entree portions are substantial and accompanied by steamed veggies and brown or white rice.

We loved . . . the macadamia-nut, herb-crusted ahi ($16.95).

We didn’t love . . . the dining area view: a parking lot. Get the food to go.

Polynesia Cafe, Ching Young Village Shopping Center, 55190 Kuhio Highway, Hanalei; (808) 826-1999.

4. Kilauea Fish Market

Price: $9.99 to $14.99

Scoping it out: Light up your North Shore road trip with a lunch or dinner stop at this diner and fish market near Kauai’s famous Kilauea Lighthouse. The cafe, housed in a century-old pineapple plantation building, offers a lighter style of food. Owners Coriena MacNeil and Steve Knox thought traditional Hawaiian foods, often high in carbs and fats, needed a healthier orientation, so they serve brown rice, use hormone-free beef, local produce and cook with olive oil. The result is some of the best ahi and teriyaki chicken we found on Kauai. Get your food to go or dine on a small, shaded outdoor patio.

We loved . . . the ahi wrap, the cafe’s most popular dish ($10.99).

We didn’t love . . . the flies that assaulted us while we ate.

Kilauea Fish Market, 4270 Kilauea Lighthouse Road, Kilauea; (808) 828-6244.

5. Kilauea Bakery

Price: $3.05 to $11.95

Scoping it out: A host of indulgent pastries, Hawaiian sourdough and Napili brown bread await at Kilauea Bakery on the North Shore. The bakery, in the inner courtyard of a small shopping center, offers unusual breads, desserts by the slice and tropical-style Danish pastries with such fillings as macadamia nut, lilikoi, guava and coconut. There’s also a selection of gluten-free desserts, plus lunch items. Katie and Tom Pickett opened the bakery 17 years ago and later added pizza and sandwiches. So what’s Hawaiian sourdough bread? It’s made with a guava starter.

We loved . . . farmers whole wheat bread, covered with sunflower and flax seeds.

We didn’t love . . . the calories in the desserts.

Kilauea Bakery, Kong Lung Center, 2484 Keneke St. at Kilauea Lighthouse Road, Kilauea; (808) 828-2020.

6. Duane’s Ono Char-Burger

Price: $4.40 to $7.25

Scoping it out: This red-and-white roadside stand, a Kauai institution, may have the best burgers on the island. Choose from 15 types of burgers, plus fried fish, shrimp or sandwiches. The most popular sandwich (and our favorite) is the juicy local boy burger, which features teriyaki sauce, cheese and pineapple ($6.95). The fries are great too. Order ahead on busy summer days when the wait can be half an hour or more. Get the food to go; there are a few cement tables, but they look as if they haven’t been washed since the last hurricane blew through.

We loved . . . the totally unexpected combination of flavors in the local boy burger.

We didn’t love . . . eating with chickens and mosquitoes at sticky tables.

Duane’s Ono Char-Burger, 44350 Kuhio Highway, Anahola (midway between Lihue and Princeville, next to Whaler General Store); (808) 822-9181.

7. Blossoming Lotus

Price: $8 to $27

Scoping it out: Get your cool on at Blossoming Lotus, a vegan fusion restaurant with a mystical vibe. The cafe, in Old Kapaa, has a nice ambience, unusual flavor combinations and entertainment (mainly jazz) several nights a week. No animal products are used in the dishes, the server said, as I ordered a Greek salad ($9 at lunch, $11 dinner). Portions tend to be small and pricey, but if you’re a light eater, you’ll make it under the $20 cap.

We loved . . . heavenly haupia pie ($7), a Hawaiian dessert made with coconut milk.

We didn’t love . . . the diminutive portions.

Blossoming Lotus, 4504 Kukui St., No. 6, Kapaa; (808) 822-7678, www.blossominglotus.com.

8. Hong Kong Cafe

Price: $7.95 to $19.95

Scoping it out: “Inexpensive food doesn’t have to be unhealthy,� says Eric Yeung, manager and part owner of the Hong Kong Cafe, a 12-table restaurant tucked into the corner of a strip mall in Kapaa. The cafe is a favorite with locals -- it was voted Best Chinese food in Kauai in the local newspaper’s annual reader write-in poll -- and Yeung, a Hong Kong native, says that more than half of his guests are return customers.

We loved . . . Tai Pan pasta, a chili and garlic stir-fried dish ($9.75).

We didn’t love . . . the heat; the cafe is not air-conditioned.

Hong Kong Cafe, 4361 Kuhio Highway, Kapaa; (808) 822-3288.

9. Monico’s Taqueria

Price: $10.95 to $16.95

Scoping it out: This cheerful, indoor-outdoor Mexican restaurant provides the real deal: Owner Monico Hernandez grew up in East L.A. He serves the food Southern Californians love -- home-style tacos, enchiladas and burritos. Hernandez came here 17 years ago to work at a restaurant owned by entertainer Charo. Four years ago he opened his own. He incorporates some wonderful Hawaiian flavors (the fish tacos, for instance, are made with ahi), but his recipes are pure East L.A. Some other Mexican restaurants we’ve visited in Hawaii pale by comparison.

We loved . . . the clean, happy atmosphere, helpful servers and great food.

We didn’t love . . . We loved it all.

Monico’s Taqueria, 4356 Kuhio Highway, Kapaa (in the Kinipopo Shopping Village), (808) 822-4300.

10. Hukilau Lanai

Price: $6.95 to $10.95 (appetizers only)

Scoping it out: Wine lovers take note: This garden restaurant in Kapaa offers 20 different bottles of wine for less than $20 (glasses are about $5.75 to $6) each. And although the dinner menu is out of our reach (most entrees are more than $20), the pupu (appetizer) selection is excellent and most cost $8 to $9. We loved the artisan cheeses, barbecue ribs and sweet potato ravioli with lemon grass cream sauce. And an ample portion of cheese and tomato-crusted focaccia and dipping sauce accompanied our order (for free), which helped make this a full meal. Lovely garden ambience, with tiki torches flaming and the ocean in the distance.

We loved . . . the vibe and the inexpensive wines.

We didn’t love . . . how hard it was to find.

Hukilau Lanai, 520 Akela Loop, Kapaa (next to Coconut Marketplace inside Kauai Coast Resort); (808) 822-0600, www.hukilaukauai.com.

11. Kauai Community College

Price: $6.50 to $8

Scoping it out: If you happen to be in Kauai during the school year, pay a visit to Kauai Community College, where budding chefs in the Culinary Arts Program cook up some of the finest budget meals in town. Lunch is served 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. daily and features island favorites such as plate lunches (a Hawaiian staple made up of two scoops of white rice, a scoop of macaroni salad and one or more entrees). Choose from entrees such as kalbi (Korean barbecue) ribs, teriyaki chicken, kalua pork or curry dishes. Or try the salad bar or a sandwich. Elaborate three-course meals are also served ($15 to $20), but call ahead for reservations to participate in this program, (808) 245-8365.

We loved . . . finding a good-quality meal for a pittance.

We didn’t love . . . that the lunches aren’t available year-round.

Kauai Community College, 31901 Kaumualii Highway, Lihue; (808) 245-8311.

12. Hamura’s Saimin Stand

Price: $4.75 to $7

Scoping it out: Rub shoulders with politicians, agricultural workers, retirees and savvy tourists at the counters of this locally famous noodle shop, in an aging downtown section of Lihue. We tried the specialty saimin, a steaming, heaping bowl of ham, Chinese cabbage, pork won ton, roast pork and saimin noodles in a hearty pork broth ($6.50). Also terrific: the teriyaki beef or chicken sticks ($1.75). Great for lunch, but expect to wait.

We loved . . . the cultural experience and great value.

We didn’t love . . . the long line.

Hamura’s Saimin, 2956 Kress St., Lihue; (808) 245-3271.

13. Lihue Barbecue Inn

Price: $11.95 to $25.95

Scoping it out: Take a step into the past at Lihue Barbecue Inn, where Mildred Sasaki believes in giving customers value for their money. A typical dinner plate special: chicken, shrimp and spare ribs with soup or fruit cup, beverage, bread and cream pie. The cost: $11.95. The Sasaki family opened the restaurant 68 years ago, and now Sasaki runs it with daughter Donna Muramota. The food isn’t fancy, but it’s filling and a real bargain.

We loved . . . getting a three-course meal for less than $12.

We didn’t love . . . that it’s closed in the middle of the day.

Lihue Barbecue Inn, 2982 Kress St., Lihue; (808) 245-2921.

14. Mark’s Place

Price: $3.25 to $7.95

Scoping it out: Construction workers line up here each day to score a bountiful plate lunch. “They say all you have to do then is find a tree to take a nap under,� says chef Mark Oyama, whose plate lunches are among the most popular on the island. The Lihue location opened 10 years ago and is in an industrial park because Oyama thought he would do only catering. (He caters many weddings and other events.) But the takeout lunch business is great, and three years ago he opened a tiny storefront near Poipu. Family dinner specials range from $26.95 to $31 and will feed four.

We loved . . . the beef teriyaki, made of sweet, succulent top sirloin.

We didn’t love . . . lack of seating if you want to eat in.

Mark’s Place, 1610 Haleukana St., Lihue, (808) 245-2722; and 23687 Kaimua Highway, Lawai, (808) 332-0050.

15. Keoki’s Paradise

Price: $5.50 to $13.95

Scoping it out: Most of the restaurants we list here are local favorites -- places where you’ll mingle with residents and dine on regional foods. Keoki’s Paradise isn’t one of those. It’s where you’ll meet other tourists. But it’s fun anyway. A waterfall runs through the middle, dropping into a lagoon; a palapa-style thatched roof covers the bar; tiki torches burn; a giant banyan tree shades a bamboo forest. Keoki’s is really two restaurants. Ask for seating in the Bamboo Hut Bar, which is family-friendly -- and affordable -- and offers such items as nachos, ribs, fish and chips. It’s not gourmet, but in Poipu, where expensive restaurants reign, Keoki’s Paradise is a breath of fresh air.

We loved . . . the tropical atmosphere.

We didn’t love . . . the line outside and slow service inside.

Keoki’s Paradise, 2360 Kiahuna Plantation Drive, Poipu (Poipu Shopping Village); (808) 742-7535, www.hulapie.com.

16. Sheraton Kauai Point

Price: $8 to $15

Scoping it out: Watch a golden sun sink into a crashing sea while you celebrate the good life with an umbrella drink and an order of kalua pork nachos at this indoor-outdoor resort restaurant in Poipu. The salads, sandwiches and appetizers here fit into our budget, but if you indulge in multiple tropical drinks, you may have to go hungry for a day. But, oh, the joy of sitting on an oceanfront patio sipping a mojito or a mai tai as you listen to the surf and the rustle of palm trees.

We loved . . . the location and the kalua nachos ($13).

We didn’t love . . . the drink prices (beer is $5, tropicals are in the $9 range).

Sheraton Kauai Point, 2440 Hoonani Road, Poipu Beach; (808) 742-1661, www.sheraton-kauai.com/de_thepoint.htm.

17. Sueoka’s Store and Snack Shop

Price: $1.95 to $5

Scoping it out: You can pay $40 for lunch in some of Poipu’s pricey restaurants, but at Sueoka’s Snack Shop, about three miles away, you can get a burger for $1.95 and a plate lunch -- meat or fish with rice and potato/macaroni salad -- for $4.75. The snack shop, next to the market, isn’t much to look at, but the fare is hearty and oh-so-cheap. And you can pick up some groceries while you’re here.

We loved . . . the prices, which were the lowest we found on the island.

We didn’t love . . . trash cans and other parking lot refuse where you order food.

Sueoka’s Snack Shop, 5392 Koloa Road, Koloa; (808) 742-1112.

18. Koloa Fish Market

Price: $6.75 to $9.75

Scoping it out: If you’re looking for fresh fish to grill or eat, Koloa Fish Market is the place. Hook a deal on swordfish, yellowfin, moonfish, wahoo and smoked fish such as marlin, salmon and ahi. Or try a cold or hot plate to go; the menu varies day to day. When we visited, there were four entree plates, including sauteed ahi for $7.75.

We loved . . . that the fish is just-off-the-boat fresh.

We didn’t love . . . the length of the line.

Koloa Fish Market, 5482 Koloa Road, Koloa; (808) 742-6199.

19. Brick Oven Pizza

Price: $4 to $36

Scoping it out: Owned for more than a quarter of a century by the Demoss family, Brick Oven Pizza changed hands last March, but the recipes seem to be the same -- and that’s a very good thing. The crust is light (available in white or wheat), toppings are liberal and the sauce is mellow and pleasing. The restaurant itself is cute and clean, with red-and-white checkered tablecloths and ample seating. You may want your order to go, which is 5% to 10% less expensive. And that makes a difference when pizzas are pricey to begin with.

We liked . . . the crust, which is brushed with garlic and oil.

We didn’t like . . . the higher price for eating in. Is this a way to discourage tourists?

Brick Oven Pizza, 2-2255 Kaumualii Highway (Route 50), Kalaheo; (808) 332-8561.

20. Jo-Jo’s Shave Ice

Price: $2 to $4

Scoping it out: Yes, we know. Shave ice does not constitute a meal, and there’s nothing else on the menu here. But we couldn’t overlook this popular Kauai food stand, which offers one of the island’s favorite treats. It’s an easy stop if you’re on the way to Waimea Canyon. You can spot it from a block or more away: a small storefront with blaring red-and-yellow paint, a hand-sprayed sign reading Jo-Jo’s and a dozen or more people holding Styrofoam cups full of shave ice, the sweet Hawaiian version of a snow cone. The ice is the distinguishing characteristic here: It’s as fine as powdered snow. Choose from 60 flavors, many of them tropical tastes such as coconut and mango, and others such as cotton candy and pistachio.

We liked . . . the surprising consistency of the ice.

We didn’t like . . . trying to find parking at this popular place.

Jo-Jo’s Shave Ice, 9734 Kaumualii Highway (Route 50), Waimea; (808) 338-9727.

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