GET OUT OF TOWN -- OR JUST EXPLORE IT

San Juan Capistrano is known mainly for two things -- its mission, founded in 1776 by Spanish priest Junipero Serra, and its annual return of migrating cliff swallows, whose reappearance each March is accompanied by great fanfare. But there’s a lot more to this charming little town about 60 miles southwest of downtown Los Angeles. Take a leisurely stroll through its picturesque streets and you’ll understand why the swallows come back.

Morning

STEP ONTO THE TRAIN, TURN BACK THE CLOCK

The best way to visit is via Amtrak or Metrolink. Built in the late 1800s, the train depot is still the town hub, with all the key sights within a few blocks’ radius. Hop off and cross the tracks to the Los Rios Historic District, which is said to be the oldest continually occupied residential neighborhood in California and one of the oldest in the United States. Head south to the corner of River and Los Rios streets and pick up a walking-tour map at the O’Neill Museum (31831 Los Rios St., [949] 493-8444), an 1870s building that was originally the home of a saloon keeper and is now the San Juan Capistrano Historical Society’s headquarters.

READY FOR SOME HOME COOKING?

Peruse your map over brunch at the artfully rustic Ramos House Cafe (31752 Los Rios St., [949] 443-1342), above. Charismatic owner-chef John Q. Humphreys, who resides on the premises, serves up blueberry coffeecake, scrambled eggs with sweet potato duck hash, and Bloody Marys garnished with crab claws and butter beans (from Humphreys’ backyard).

YOUR MISSION: TO ENJOY

A few blocks east lies the sprawling Mission San Juan Capistrano (31414 El Camino Real, [949] 234-1300). Among its bougainvillea-covered, weathered arcades are displays of the padres’ quarters, a museum, soldiers’ barracks and an old soap- and candle-making factory. Mass is still conducted in the centuries-old Serra Chapel, which features delicately painted walls and an elaborate cherry wood and gold leaf altarpiece from Barcelona. On Saturday, the mission will hold its annual Return of the Swallows celebration with festivities including traditional bell ringing, Native American performance groups, ethnic foods, school choirs, dancers and mariachis, below.

Afternoon

JUST LIKE OLD TIMES

Yet another trip through history is provided by the Old Barn Antiques Mall (31792 Camino Capistrano, [949] 493-9144), an 11,000-square-foot vintage mecca of furniture, housewares, books and jewelry from the early 20th century and onward. Next door is the Swallow’s Inn (31786 Camino Capistrano, [949] 493-3188), an old-fashioned honky-tonk that’s host to the annual Fiesta Grande, an Old West-themed celebration March 26 with numerous contests, including “Best Dressed Old West Woman” and “Best Belt Buckle.”

SHOW YOUR WILD SIDE

San Juan Capistrano is home to Orange County’s largest park, Caspers Wilderness Park (33401 Ortega Highway, [949] 923-2210), above, an 8,000-acre protected wilderness preserve with running streams, abundant wildlife and equestrian trails. On Saturday nights, the park holds a campfire featuring slide shows, live animals, singalongs and many artifact and eco-fact displays.

Evening

DINNER AND A SHOW

This being a small town, night life options are fairly limited. But for a romantic dinner a deux, it’s hard to top Rendezvous bistro (26701 Verdugo St., [949] 496-1006), which has converted an elegant 1927 Pullman rail car into a cozy dining room. After dinner, you can check out a band at the Coach House (33157 Camino Capistrano, [949] 496-8930), or watch a movie under the stars at one of the outdoor movie screenings that local Tyler Marolf frequently presents at his home in Los Rios ( www.myspace.com /plagueafh).

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-- Pauline.OC[email protected]