THE GLUTTON
Soul food and Cajun/Creole cuisine are close relatives, separated by just a handful of dishes on the N’Awlins side -- jambalaya, gumbo, etouffee, beignets and crawfish. So when the Glutton wants to sate her Yankee palate with a dash of Big Easy flavor, those are her dishes of choice.
Louisiana transplants and those lucky enough to remember Stevie’s on the Strip will appreciate restaurateur Steven Perry’s Encino venture, Stevie’s Creole Cafe & Bar. It has the warmth and polish of an established neighborhood restaurant, but more important, the gumbo is to die for. The Glutton recommends starting with a small cup of the stuff and a plate of catfish nuggets followed by the creamy crawfish etouffee. For dessert, order a serving of the baked mac ‘n’ cheese. At Stevie’s, the prices are steep, but the entrees are huge.
With its slightly antiseptic strip mall environs, Uncle Darrow’s (Marina del Rey) has a completely different vibe, but offers the best deals on quality Creole cuisine. Its red beans and rice might be the best in L.A. Its delicious sausage links are spicy without being overpowering. The corn bread is dosed with vanilla to make it extra delicious. The cornmeal breading on its catfish (Stevie’s uses flour) is firm yet light. And the dough-encased hot pockets of sweet potato pie are the pinnacle of perfection.
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