A rockin’ brunch? It’s possible.

Gone are the days when rock ‘n’ roll brunch meant three shots of Jack and a pack of unfiltered Camels. That might fly at 2 a.m. on Saturday night, but come Sunday morning today’s hard-partying diner seeks his or her hangover cure in the form of decadent brunch in a trendy West Hollywood hotel. Or at least that’s what the folks behind Simon L.A.’s rock ‘n’ roll brunch at the Sofitel Hotel are banking on.

Rock ‘n’ roll brunch combines the culinary prowess of chef Kerry Simon with the musical stylings of DJ Kelly Cole, who can also be found spinning at Teddy’s in the Roosevelt and at West Hollywood’s clubby One Sunset.

On a recent Sunday afternoon, however, DJ Kelly Cole was nowhere to be seen. Only a stream of predictable tunes including Aerosmith’s “Dream On� and “Into the Mystic� by Van Morrison hinted at his presence. Perhaps Cole was tailoring his choices based on the clientele. The small crowd of mostly middle-aged diners strewn about the pleasant patio -- shaded by swaths of tan linen strung on varnished wood posts -- was distinctly low-key and lacked the trappings associated with the rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle. (As did the super-friendly wait staff, who were clad in Led Zeppelin and Beatles T-shirts.)

Fortunately the brunch revealed a rock star of the liquid variety. If the menu items were Van Halen singers, the build-your-own Bloody Mary would be Simon L.A.’s David Lee Roth. Pick a juice (tomato, V8, Clamato), some seasonings (celery salt, black pepper, fresh horseradish, wasabi) and as much garnish as you can stomach (olive, pickle, jalapeno, lemon, lime, Parmesan wedge, salami) and sit patiently while the bartender mixes up a giant glass of thick, red deliciousness.

If you simply can’t handle booze in the morning, opt for a refreshing herbal elixir like the Morning After or a Virtual Buddha. Other than the Elvis-themed peanut butter and banana French toast fingers and the junk-food sampler featuring a kick-drum-sized bowl of pink cotton candy, the menu offers few musical shout-outs. But after a couple of Bloody Marys, you’ll stop over-analyzing the rock theme and you might even forget that you’re dining in the shadow of the Beverly Center. 8555 Beverly Blvd., (310) 358-3979

-- Jessica.G[email protected]