Raw-raw spirit

New York chef Mario Batali more or less invented the Italian-style sashimi called crudo. But in Italian, “crudo� simply means raw, and in Italy the term is used to refer to cured or uncooked meat dishes.

Il Grano

Every day, chef Sal Marino, L.A.’s unofficial crudo king, offers a fantasia di crudo consisting of half a dozen or so pieces of shellfish and fish: maybe a scallop accented with candied lemon peel, fluke rolled with pickled vegetables and finished with a basil-infused olive oil, and fresh sea urchin from Oxnard.

* Fantasia di crudo, $18. 11359 Santa Monica Blvd., West L.A., (310) 477-7886.

Bridge

Rob Lucas, head sushi chef at Koi, Bridge’s ever-trendy sister restaurant across the street, helped develop the crudo offerings on the new lounge menu. Thin slices of salmon are served with ponzu, a dab of basil pesto and parmesan shavings. Yellowtail gets a hit of soy-yuzu dressing along with diced chile and sun-dried tomato.

* Salmon or yellowtail, $18. 755 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., (310) 659-3535.

West

Among the items on chef Josh Moulton’s crudo menu, at this 6-month-old modern Italian with killer views atop Hotel Angeleno, is Japanese fluke. Moulton fans five swatches of the firm, white fish on a plate, adds a touch of fruity Umbrian olive oil and Meyer lemon juice and the barest hint of sea salt along with finely chopped red Fresno chile peppers.

* Fluke, $14. 170 N. Church Lane, West L.A., (310) 476-6411.

La Terza

Unlike American steak tartare, the carne cruda chef Gino Angelini prepares at this buzzing bi-level spot isn’t made with egg: just shallots, lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper. The finely chopped beef, a traditional dish from Piedmont, is piled on grilled ciabatta toasts rubbed with garlic and painted with hollandaise made with bacon fat.

* Carne cruda, $16. 8384 W. 3rd St., L.A., (323) 782-8384.

Drago

Celestino Drago just unveiled the annual, seasonal truffle menu at his dining room. One dish stars quarter-size slices of raw scallop alternating with soft, creamy potato slices. This is finished with a little truffle oil, micro greens and, if you choose to live big, a heap of shaved, fragrant Alba truffles.

* Scallops and potatoes, $14 (with truffles $45). 2628 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 828-1585.