2002 Domaine de la Bongran ‘Cuvee Tradition’ Vire Clesse

You’d normally have to pay quite a bit more to get a Chardonnay from Burgundy like this one, from the often overlooked Macon area. Domaine de la Bongran’s “Cuvee Tradition� has everything going for it: lush silky texture, lively acidity and a lovely flowery perfume with just a touch of oak.

And because the wood doesn’t dominate, this is a tremendously food-friendly Chardonnay, wonderful with a simple roast chicken, grilled fish or a veal blanquette.

Quick swirl

Region: Burgundy

Price: About $28

Style: Supple and fragrant

Food it goes with: Roast chicken, grilled fish, veal blanquette

Where you find it: BottleRock in Culver City, (310) 836-9463; Flask Fine Wines in Studio City, (818) 761-5373; Wally’s in West Los Angeles, (310) 475-0606; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 9741454 and (800) 76WINEX; the Wine House in West L.A., (310) 479-3731; and Wine Pavilion in Lake Forest, (866) 610-9463.

-- S. Irene Virbila