Greek to me

Mama Voula’s

Yet another testament that some of our city’s best restaurants are located in minimalls. This one features recipes from Athens resident Mama Voula, who visits a couple of times a year to ensure that the hand-carved lamb gyros and loukaniko (grilled pork sausage) are just right.

* Gyros plate, $7.99; loukaniko, $8.99. 11923 Santa Monica Blvd., West L.A., (310) 478-9464.

The Great Greek

This San Fernando Valley veteran of 21 years features a guitar- and bouzouki-playing duo nightly, dancing waiters and a menu of favorites including a satisfying moussaka. During lulls, play “name that Greek or Greek American celebrity”: The walls are lined with portraits of folks such as Telly Savalas and John Cassavetes.

* Moussaka, $14.95. 13362 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, (818) 905-5250.

Le Petit Greek

You don’t get much fanfare at this Larchmont Village charmer. But there’s a nice selection of fish, including salmon Delphi (baked with tomatoes and feta) and a cellar full of Greek wines that go well beyond Retsina. Though chocolate might not be a traditional Greek ending, the chocolate parthenon, a melange of chocolate and walnuts enrobed in filo, hits the spot.

* Salmon, $19.95. 127 N. Larchmont Blvd., L.A., (323) 464-5160.

Papadakis Taverna

Meals at this San Pedro destination begin with an Arnie Morton’s-style presentation of the meat and seafood as well as dishes of refreshing tzatziki (cucumber-

yogurt spread) and creamy taramosalata (a caviar dip). Lamb is a specialty, available in a handful of preparations. An eclectic menu of entertainment includes belly dancers and violinists.

* Lamb dinners, $19.95 to $59.95. 301 W. 6th St., San Pedro, (310) 548-1186.

Taverna Tony

Like just about every business in the 90265, the chances of a celebrity spotting are good at this Malibu Country Mart eatery. We like the patio best. There’s live music nightly and enough tasty starters, including saganaki (flaming cheese), to make a satisfying meal.

* Saganaki, $8.95. 23410 Civic Center Way, Malibu, (310) 317-9667.

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-- Leslee Komaiko