2004 Gulfi Carjcanti

Here’s a fascinating white wine from one of Sicily’s most lauded boutique wineries. Ten years ago, Vito Catania took over his father’s vineyards in southeastern Sicily and began making his own wines. Though his crus of Nero d’Avola have gotten most of the attention, his Carjcanti, made from a blend of indigenous Carricante and the even more rare Albanello grapes, is a wonderful find. Pale gold with glints of green, it has an extravagant and generous aroma of apples and orange blossoms with notes of almond and anise in the taste.

It’s great with all kinds of seafood, but especially grilled whole fish. It also makes a fine aperitivo.

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Quick swirl

Region: Sicily

Price: About $20

Style: Dry and aromatic

Food it goes with: Grilled fish, seafood pasta, chilled shellfish platters

Where you find it: Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454 and (800) 76WINEX; the Wine House in West Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731; and Wine Pavilion in Lake Forest, (866) 610-9463

-- S. Irene Virbila