2005 Franz Hirtzberger ‘Rotes Tor’ Gruner Veltliner Federspiel

Franz Hirtzberger is a star in the Wachau, the region of Austria famous for world-class dry whites made on steep, terraced vineyards west of Vienna. With a little luck, you can still find his beguiling “Rotes Tor” Gruner Veltliner from the excellent 2005 vintage. (The federspiel refers to a level of ripeness.) What I love about this wine is its fragrance -- all ripe, golden fruit, with a touch of bitter citrus. The taste is of green apples and white pepper, along with a deep-seated minerality and a zingy acidity.

It’s an incredibly versatile food wine, shining with chilled seafood platters or smoked salmon on blinis or bialys. It sets off a rich pumpkin soup too, and goes well with pan-fried trout or grilled fish.

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Quick swirl

Region: Wachau, Austria

Price: About $28

Style: Crisp, dry

Food it goes with: Chilled seafood, smoked trout and salmon

Where you find it: Manhattan Fine Wines in Manhattan Beach, (310) 374-3454; Mission Wines in South Pasadena, (626) 403-9463; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454 and (800) 76WINEX.

- S. Irene Virbila