A Colossal Catch

They are huge, these Santa Barbara spot prawns. And they are coddled all the way to the table.

They are caught in traps at depths up to 1,600 feet, carefully brought aboard small shrimp boats and kept alive for the trip to shore, which can be as much as 100 miles away. They are shipped from the docks in trucks with large tanks of aerated seawater kept at an icy 38 degrees to replicate the ocean depths as closely as possible. Then they are cooked at high-end restaurants or eaten as sushi called amaebi. Such is the popularity of this trendy delicacy that summer menus throughout Southern California are featuring this prawn.

Spot prawns are caught from February to November, but the majority of the harvest comes right about now. Even in the best of times, though, the catch is erratic--weather in the fishing grounds can be treacherous. Sometimes entire weeks can go by with seas too rough for the small boats.

What is it about spot prawns that make them worth the trouble? It’s not just the size, though with a “shrimp” as long as 10 inches, that is certainly distinctive. The real selling point of spot prawns is their firm texture and sweet, almost nutty flavor. In many ways, these are closer to lobster than to the soft, pallid farm-raised shrimp we’re so used to today.

“It’s a great shrimp, and you can do anything with it,” says Michael Cimarusti, head chef at the Water Grill, one of Los Angeles’ top seafood restaurants. “They’re incredibly sweet.”

Echoes Charles Fredericks, the head chef at Bouchon in Santa Barbara: “In my opinion, it’s one of the superior crustacean products available anywhere in the world. Chefs always look for ingredients, and this is one ingredient that makes a chef look good.”

Although most shrimp today are raised in vast farms as far away as Southeast Asia and South America, then shipped to this country in great frozen blocks, spot prawns are incredibly perishable and should be purchased, as Fredericks puts it, “alive and kicking.” Within hours of dying, they become mushy, tasteless and virtually worthless unless they’ve been handled just right.

“They’re a lot like lobsters, so they’re not going to last three or four days,” says Blake Wheeler, a wholesale buyer for American Fish and Seafood Co. “You want to move them quick.”

Alaska to San Diego

The major California fishery for the spot prawn is off Monterey and around Southern California’s Channel Islands (despite its Santa Barbara nickname, the prawn is found from the Bering Sea to San Diego).

There is no clear definition of what is a prawn and what is a shrimp. In general, big shrimps are called prawns. Spot prawns, which are so-called because they have four distinctive white spots on their abdomens, come from the genus Pandalus, which tend to be wildly colored--a close cousin is the coonstripe shrimp from the northern Pacific.

Though some are caught in trawl nets, most experts agree that the best spot prawns are those caught in traps, usually oblong contraptions with conical entrances at either end. The traps, baited with everything from cat food to fish carcasses, are hooked to a long nylon line and lowered to depths ranging from 400 to 1,600 feet.

Shrimpers mark their lines with distinctive buoys and haul them up every several days. The catch is then dumped into tanks of chilled salt water for the long trip back to port. One fisherman, Ventura-based Jeff Hepp, says he sometimes fishes more than 100 miles offshore for the spot prawn.

But that is only the beginning of the process that eventually puts the prawn on a dinner plate. Next in the chain is the likes of Steve Moore of Oxnard, who trucks the prawns to wholesalers and selected restaurants around Los Angeles. Moore says he prefers the trapped variety because they are in better shape and tend to be larger, usually about six to the pound.

“The ones in the traps are of better quality because they don’t get so beat up,” says Moore, who also owns two restaurants called the Fresh Catch, in Oxnard and Newbury Park.

The spot prawn looks more like a lobster than a garden-variety shrimp. Spot prawns start off as males, but become females after three years. They mate once as a male and at least once as a female. Their average lifespan in waters off California is six years. At the end of the spawning season in January, there is a noticeable drop-off in females because that is when they usually die.

A Comfy 38 Degrees

Once caught, Moore says the spot prawns are weighed at the dock before he loads them into one of three 200-gallon tanks installed in his truck. The saltwater is cooled to 38 degrees in an effort to replicate spot prawn habitat and keep the catch alive longer. The water itself is aerated using a soaker hose.

If they aren’t bound for a tank, they have to be beheaded quickly before an enzyme begins to seep into the rest of the body, turning the flesh mushy and discoloring it.

Because of their erratic availability and because they require such careful handling, spot prawns are only rarely found at retail, even at seafood specialty stores. But they can be found from time to time at some seafood markets such as Fish King in Glendale, or ordered live through high-end food stores such as Bristol Farms. They can also be found at seafood vendors at some Southern California farmers markets.

Spot prawns can be fixed in a variety of ways. Mostly commonly, they are simply split down the length and sauteed or grilled to take the greatest advantage of their impressive size. The tail is the best part. The head (which makes up as much as one-third of the length) does contain a lot of flavorful fat, though it is hard to get to. Sometimes you’ll get spots that still have their roe. Though this is colorful, it doesn’t have much flavor.

Cimarusti takes advantage of their appearance by serving split, grilled prawns with a light stew of favas and ginger. Another time he served them with a delicate salad of steamed fingerling potatoes bound with a lobster nage.

Because they are available only occasionally, Fredericks says he never puts spot prawns on his menu, but makes them a house specialty when shrimpers call and say they’re coming in with a load of spots. One recent dish featured wontons with a filling of chopped spot prawns. Though this may seem like a waste of a beautiful body, using them this way gets the most flavor from the smallest amount of an expensive ingredient. In sushi, amaebi, or sweet prawns, are shelled and the tails are eaten raw. Sometimes the heads are served separately, either deep fried in tempura batter or in a miso broth.

Trapping for spot prawns can have its down side. Moore says that on occasion, territorial conflicts arise between the trappers and the trawlers, or draggers.

“The draggers will get in there and destroy a string or two,” he says. “It usually happens when the dragger isn’t a local.”

Or consider the case of John Gooth, an Oceanside shrimper who had to set out early last week to pull in his traps and move them. The reason was somewhat unusual: as part of naval exercises out of San Diego, minesweepers were operating in the area.

“If I didn’t get them out, the minesweeper would have cut my lines,” he says.

Russ Parsons contributed to this report.

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Grilled Spot Prawns With Peas and Ginger

Active Work Time: 15 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour, 10 minutes

This recipe comes from Michael Cimarusti at Water Grill in downtown Los Angeles. He likes to use tiny fava beans, but says peas may be substituted. We tested this recipe with peas and found that not only were they delicious, but not having to shell and peel the fava beans saved time. If you do use favas, look for them at well-supplied farmers markets and specialty stores. Fleur de sel, a sea salt, is sold at specialty markets and well-stocked supermarkets.

2 1/2 pounds spot prawns (about 12) or other large prawns

12 thick asparagus spears, tough ends removed, peeled

1 tomato

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

Salt, pepper

1 tablespoon butter

1 teaspoon grated ginger root

1 cup peas or small fava beans

2 teaspoons finely chopped chives

Juice of 1 lemon

1 teaspoon fresh tarragon leaves

Fleur de sel, for garnish

Heat the grill to high. Line a baking sheet with paper towels and set aside.

Fill a stockpot or large, deep pot with water and bring to a rolling boil over high heat. Add the prawns head-first to the pot all at once and cover. Cook 30 seconds. Drain the prawns in a colander and rinse with cold water. Place the prawns on the baking sheet and pat dry with paper towels.

Cut the asparagus into 3-inch pieces. Blanch 30 seconds, then plunge into a bowl of ice water. Drain and set aside.

Blanch the tomato 30 seconds, then plunge into ice water. Remove the tomato, cut out the core and peel. Cut the tomato into quarters, seed and dice. Set aside.

Place the prawns in a large bowl. Add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Place the prawns on the grill, cover, and cook until the shells are slightly charred, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn them over and cook 2 to 3 minutes more, depending on the size. To check for doneness, remove a prawn from the grill and cut into the tail portion. The meat should be opaque and cooked through in the center. Remove the prawns from the grill and set aside.

Heat a large skillet over medium-low heat. Add the butter and melt; do not sizzle or brown. Add the ginger and cook until fragrant, 30 seconds. Add the asparagus and peas and warm gently, 1 minute. Increase the heat to medium and add the tomato. Cook, stirring gently, until the tomato breaks down slightly, 3 to 4 minutes. This will thicken the pan juices. Season with salt and pepper to taste and add the chives. Set aside.

Cut the prawns in half down the middle with a sharp knife and devein if necessary. Divide the prawns among 4 large warmed plates and spoon the asparagus mixture over and around them. Squeeze lemon juice over the prawns, drizzle liberally with the remaining 2 tablespoons of extra-virgin olive-oil, and sprinkle with the tarragon and a little fleur de sel.

4 servings. Each serving: 459 calories; 779 mg sodium; 588 mg cholesterol; 17 grams fat; 4 grams saturated fat; 9 grams carbohydrates; 66 grams protein; 3.11 grams fiber.

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‘Spot Stickers’ With Dipping Sauce and

Green Onion Salad

Active Work Time: 55 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour, 10 minutes

These pot stickers made with spot prawns are from chef Charles Fredericks of Bouchon in Santa Barbara. Serve them as appetizers. Mirin can be found in the Asian aisle of well-stocked supermarkets. Dumpling wrappers can be found at Asian markets and with the ethnic ingredients in the refrigerated aisle of well-stocked supermarkets.

POT STICKERS

1 1/2 pounds spot prawns (about 7 or 8) or other large prawns

10 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons vegetable oil, divided

1/2 cup minced red bell pepper

3 tablespoons minced garlic (about 5 cloves)

3 tablespoons minced ginger root

3 tablespoons minced green onions, white parts only

48 round dumpling wrappers

Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil over high heat. Plunge the prawns head-first into the pot, cover and cook 30 seconds. Drain the prawns in a colander; rinse with cold water until cool. Twist off the heads, peel and devein.

Heat 2 teaspoons of the oil in a large skillet over medium-low heat. Add the bell pepper and cook until slightly softened, 2 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and set aside. Increase the heat to medium-high, add 2 tablespoons of the oil to the skillet and cook the garlic, ginger and green onions until fragrant and tender, stirring, 1 minute. Do not brown. Add the prawns and cook 30 seconds on each side.

Add the prawns to the bowl with the bell pepper and toss. When cool enough to handle, cut the prawns into quarters.

If using a dumpling press, lay a dumpling wrapper on the press and place a piece of prawn and 1/4 teaspoon of the pepper mixture in the center. Lightly moisten the edges of the wrapper with water and close the press to make a pot sticker. Remove and set on a large tray. Repeat, filling the remaining wrappers with the shrimp and pepper mixture. Cover the pot stickers with a damp paper towel as you work so they don’t dry out. (If you don’t have a dumpling press, lay each wrapper on a work surface, place a piece of prawn and 1/4 teaspoon of the pepper mixture in the center. Lightly moisten the edges of the wrapper with water and fold over, pressing to seal. Pinch the edges with your fingers to pleat.)

Heat a large skillet over high heat. Add 2 tablespoons of oil and swirl to cover the bottom of the pan. When the oil is hot, add 12 pot stickers and brown each side 30 seconds. Add 1/2 cup of water, cover and steam until all the liquid is evaporated, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove and keep warm. Repeat with the remaining pot stickers, each time adding 2 tablespoons of oil to the skillet to brown, and 1/2 cup of water to steam.

DIPPING SAUCE

2 tablespoons minced ginger root

2 tablespoons minced garlic

2 tablespoons minced green onions, white parts only

1/2 cup soy sauce

2 tablespoons mirin

1/4 cup rice vinegar

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1/4 cup vegetable oil

Combine the ginger, garlic, onions, soy sauce, mirin and vinegar in a small bowl. Slowly whisk in the sesame and vegetable oils.

SALAD

1/4 head red cabbage, very thinly sliced (about 2 cups)

1/4 head savoy cabbage, very thinly sliced (about 2 cups)

2 green onions, green parts only, sliced

1/4 cup cilantro leaves

Green onions, lime juice, cilantro leaves, for garnish

Combine the red and savoy cabbage, green onions and cilantro in a bowl with 1/4 cup of the dipping sauce. Let stand 15 minutes.

Serve the “Spot Stickers” on a spoonful of salad. Serve the sauce on the side; garnish as desired.

12 servings. Each serving: 237 calories; 1,138 mg sodium; 127 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 20 grams carbohydrates; 18 grams protein; 1.35 grams fiber.