Sensual, with a whisper of the exotic

AT Red Pearl Kitchen in Huntington Beach, Shelley Register has given the French custard, pot de creme, a delightful makeover. Register, who is executive pastry chef here and at Tim Goodell’s other restaurants, is something of a chameleon. At Red Pearl, where the kitchen ranges all over Asia, coming up with a dessert menu to match was one of her greater challenges.

Her pot de creme is the ideal melding of invention and classicism. Instead of a dainty lidded porcelain container, she serves it in a generously sized cafe au lait bowl with a billowy cloud of whipped cream on top. Dip your spoon into the satiny custard suffused with green cardamom: The texture and taste are incredibly sensual. Of course, the classic pot de creme is chocolate, but by steeping pods of the Sri Lankan spice in cream, she’s written a terrific finale to Red Pearl Kitchen’s updated Asian menu.

Red Pearl Kitchen, 412 Walnut Ave., Huntington Beach, (714) 969-0224

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Cardamom pot de creme

Total time: 1 1/2 hours, plus 4 hours chilling

Servings: 8

Note: Serve with a dollop of whipped cream and gingersnaps.

1 tablespoon cardamom pods

1 quart half-and-half

1 1/3 cups sugar

12 egg yolks

1. Use the flat side of a knife to crack open the cardamom pods and remove the seeds. Set the seeds aside and discard the pods.

2. Place the half-and-half in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Add the cardamom seeds. Remove the saucepan from the heat and allow to steep 15 minutes. Return the saucepan to the heat and bring the mixture to a simmer.

3. In a mixing bowl, whisk the sugar into the yolks just until incorporated. Whisk a little hot half-and-half in with the yolk mixture until most of the liquid is incorporated and the egg mixture is quite warm. Pour the yolk mixture into the saucepan with the rest of the half-and-half and heat over low heat 1 to 2 minutes (be careful that it does not curdle). Strain the custard through a fine mesh sieve.

4. Heat the oven to 300 degrees.

5. Divide the custard among 8 (3-ounce) ramekins. Place the ramekins in a 13-by-9-inch baking dish at least 2 inches deep. Fill the dish with enough cool water to come 1 inch up the sides of the ramekins. Bake until the custard is set, 40 minutes. The center of each should be slightly wobbly; check by gently shaking the pan.

6. Remove the ramekins from the water bath and cool to room temperature. Refrigerate 4 hours or overnight before serving.

Each serving: 376 calories; 57 mg. sodium; 428 mg. cholesterol; 22 grams fat; 10 grams saturated fat; 38 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 0.07 gram fiber.