The Whole Enchilada

Some families possess great wealth or beauty, or give rise to heroes or scholars. Our family has good taste buds and an enchilada recipe handed down through eight generations.

My family was convinced that we made the best enchiladas around. You might consider this attitude to be insufferable until you tasted them. My mother and grandmother, great cooks only a little prone to exaggeration, swore that the enchilada recipe had not been changed in 150 years.

How could anyone really know since the recipe was only given by word of mouth to make sure that no one outside the family could steal it? I changed all of that when I wrote down the recipe’s twists and turns.

When you read it, this recipe for red enchiladas may seem straightforward and not at all unusual. But wait. There is something serendipitous about combining the heat of the red chile, the sweetness of the long sauteed onions and the sharp saltiness of the cheese.

Meat was never added to this filling. Some rancho families added chopped hard-boiled eggs, but we did not. When Uncle William married an Irish girl called Margaret, she offered to bring enchiladas to a barbecue. She added fried hamburger and was never asked to bring enchiladas again. She used her Irishness as an excuse for the lapse. Margaret is now 87 and still adding hamburger to her red enchiladas.

It is next to unthinkable for there to be an important occasion--whether it is a christening, wedding, birthday or funeral--without red enchiladas. Our son, Ian, requested them to celebrate his graduation from UCLA. When Uncle Jack, the next-to-last rancho uncle, passed away, the biggest topic of conversation at the funeral was that there weren’t any red enchiladas. The younger generation had omitted them for convenience.

Like many foods that lie deep within the culinary memory of California, the red enchilada is a fusion food. Neither Mexican nor Spanish, it is Californian.

The Spanish subjects and soldiers who laid claim to Alta California had already become enamored with many of Mexico’s foods, a particular favorite being red chile. The natural thing to do was to blend what they brought from Europe with what they found in Mexico. They used red chile as if they had been born eating it. It coated meats and enriched sauces. It is said that the early Spaniards in the Southwest ate even more chile than the Mexicans who had introduced them to it.

The native populations in all the regions of Mexico used minuscule amounts of fat before the arrival of the Spaniards, who introduced the wonders of adding flavor with lard and olive oil. Pre-Spanish enchiladas were practically fat-free, later enchiladas used frying gloriously. Frying the red chile sauce cuts the raw, sharp flavor of the pure chile, smoothing it out. Sauteing the onions makes them sweet and almost caramelized.

Every family recipe has its secrets, and this one is no different. At one time there was great argument as to the type of red chiles used and how they had been dried. I consider that settled. Sun-dried chiles are preferred. Artificially dried chiles can be bitter.

That doesn’t mean that all new things are bad. For years I have been soaking dried chiles before pureeing and straining them, just as my grandmother taught me. Then one day, as I was looking at the dark red soaking water, I had a chile epiphany. I decided to try steaming the dried chiles instead, and I found this produces the most flavorful sauce. Long soaking saps the flavor of the chiles just as it does with frijoles .

The type of tortilla is equally important. For my ranchero family, there is only the hand-rolled and hand-stretched flour tortilla, made so thin you can read the newspaper through it. If the flour tortilla is supple, it doesn’t have to be heated or fried. It can be dipped and coated with red chile sauce and then filled.

Enchiladas made with thin flour tortillas puff more, but I also love enchiladas made with earthy corn tortillas. If you prefer corn tortillas, it is best to use day-old ones and fry them in a few teaspoons of light olive or canola oil. They need to be heated, not only to soften them, but also because it helps to seal the surface, which keeps them from disintegrating when sauced.

The enchilada has traveled far--thousands of miles and hundreds of years--taking on different qualities depending upon where it made landfall. In California, it became our very own red enchilada, ultimately symbolizing the fusion of Mexico and Spanish California.

Now old Red has transformed itself into new versions, such as the Seafood Enchiladas and the Black Bean and Vegetable Torta. Just like a family or its legends, every generation adds something new.

McMahan is the author of the recently published “Rancho Cooking, Mexican and Californian Recipes� (Sasquatch Books, $21.95).

Napkin and plate from Sur La Table stores.

Chiles and Tortillas for Enchiladas * Naturally dried red chiles can be found in Mexican markets such as the Vallarta markets in the Valley. Or send for chiles from the Chile Shop, (505) 983-6080 or https://www.thechileshop.com.

* If you are too busy to make hand-stretched flour tortillas, there are wonderful fresh tortillas available under the label “Tortilla Rica� distributed by Nasco Gourmet. They are raw and are found in the refrigerated cheese sections of most large supermarkets. Heat a griddle, comal or large nonstick skillet. Cook the tortilla until bubbles form on the surface and then turn. The tortilla will puff, forming layers like pastry. Keep turning it until both sides have golden brown flecks. Place in foil until you have baked what you need.

Black Bean And Vegetable Stacked Enchilada

Active Work Time: 1 hour 15 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 2 hours * Vegetarian

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To cook your own black beans, rinse 1 pound of beans in a strainer and check for stones and dirt clumps. Place them in a large pot with 9 cups of water, 1 chopped onion, 4 cloves of minced garlic, 1 dried chipotle (optional but good), 2 bay leaves and 1 teaspoon of salt. Bring to a simmer and cook on low heat for about 2 to 2 1/2 hours. During the last 30 minutes, add 1 tablespoon of cider vinegar and 1 more teaspoon of salt. Continue to cook until the beans are tender. You’ll have about 2 cups more beans than needed here. If you cook your own beans, add about 15 minutes to the preparation time and 2 1/2 hours to total time. If you use canned black beans, drain and rinse them first.

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VEGETABLE LAYER

1 tablespoon light olive oil

1 onion, chopped

4 poblano chiles

1 red bell pepper, diced

2 ears corn, kernels cut off

3 small zucchini, diced

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Heat the olive oil in a wide skillet over medium heat and cook the onion just until softened, about 4 minutes. Meanwhile, remove the seed pods from the poblano chiles by cutting around the stems. Cut the chiles into strips and dice. Add them to the onion and continue to cook. After 5 minutes, add the bell pepper, corn and zucchini. Cook until the zucchini is tender, a couple of minutes longer. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.

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SALSA LAYER

1/2 cup diced sweet onion

3 tomatoes or 5 plum tomatoes, seeded and diced

1 to 2 jalapenos, seeded and minced

1/4 cup minced cilantro

1 teaspoon New Mexican chile powder

1 teaspoon salt

Combine the onion, tomatoes, jalapenos and cilantro. Season with the chile powder and salt.

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ASSEMBLY

3 cups cooked black beans, divided

6 (10-inch) flour tortillas

Vegetable Layer, divided

3 1/2 cups grated Jack cheese, divided

Salsa Layer, divided

Drain off any excess liquid from the black beans and roughly puree them in a food processor. Set aside.

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Oil a 15x10-inch jellyroll pan. A 12-inch paella pan also works well. Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

Lay out the first tortilla in the middle of the baking dish. Spread on a thin layer of pureed black beans, about 1/2 cup. Next add a layer of sauteed vegetables, about 1/2 cup of grated cheese and a layer of salsa. Repeat layering. As you build, lightly press in the middle. The torta tends to bunch up in the middle. Don’t press too hard or overwork when spreading. Just lightly spread on each layer. Finish with the sixth tortilla, spread on the last layer of beans, a layer of salsa and 1 cup of cheese.

Bake until the cheese is bubbly and beginning to brown, about 35 minutes. Allow the torta to rest about 15 minutes before serving.

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6 to 8 servings. Each of 8 servings: 409 calories; 829 mg sodium; 42 mg cholesterol; 19 grams fat; 10 grams saturated fat; 41 grams carbohydrates; 21 grams protein; 9.79 grams fiber.

Classic Red Enchiladas

Active Work Time: 35 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour * Vegetarian

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The red enchilada ultimately symbolized the fusion of Mexican foods and some of the favored ingredients brought over from Spain such as olives, olive oil and cheeses. These enchiladas, done Californio-style, were served at every important event but especially at barbecues. Try to make the enchiladas the day before you need them as the red chile will soak into the tortillas and make the enchiladas even better. Buy the thinnest tortillas you can find or use homemade.

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Olive oil

5 onions, chopped

Salt, pepper

1 tablespoon dried oregano

4 cups Red Chile Sauce, divided

10 flour tortillas

1 1/2 pounds medium-sharp Cheddar cheese, grated

1 cup pitted black olives or home-cured olives

Oil 2 (15x10-inch) jellyroll pans.

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Heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet over low heat. Add the onions; cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste and the oregano.

Spoon 1 cup of Red Chile Sauce onto a wide dinner plate. Starting with 1 tortilla, dip both sides in the sauce. Place 1/2 cup of grated cheese, 2 olives and 1/3 cup of cooked onions down the middle of the tortilla. (We never added grated hard-boiled eggs, but many rancho families did.) Lastly, roll the sides of each tortilla over the filling. Place the enchilada, folded side down, on one of the pans. Repeat with the remaining tortillas. Pour the remaining Red Chile Sauce over the enchiladas. Sprinkle the remaining cheese in a strip down the middle of each enchilada. Decorate with any remaining olives. Cover the pans and refrigerate the enchiladas until you are ready to bake them. Let them stand at room temperature 1 hour before baking.

Heat the oven to 350 degrees near serving time.

Bake the enchiladas until they are puffed and the cheese has melted, 20 to 25 minutes.

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10 enchiladas. Each enchilada: 458 calories; 885 mg sodium; 57 mg cholesterol; 30 grams fat; 13 grams saturated fat; 31 grams carbohydrates; 18 grams protein; 4.74 grams fiber.

Red Chile Sauce

Active Work Time: 20 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 1/2 hours

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Red chile sauce, the pride of the kitchen, was used not only for the famous red enchiladas but countless other favorites such as Chile Colorado and tamales. This sauce differentiates itself by the toasted flour roux used to deepen flavors and the tiny bit of vinegar used to “sweeten� the chile.

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18 dried California or New Mexican chiles, or a combination of both

2 ancho chiles

3 cloves garlic

3 1/2 cups water, divided

3 tablespoons light-flavored olive oil

2 tablespoons flour

1 1/2 teaspoons ground oregano

1 tablespoon cider vinegar

1 teaspoon salt

Dash sugar, if necessary

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1/2 to 1 cup water or mild chicken broth, to thin sauce

Hold the California and ancho chiles under running water to rinse. Use scissors to cut off the chiles stems and cut the chiles in half. Shake out the seeds onto a paper towel. (Put the seeds in your garden for the birds. Place the chiles and garlic in the top half of a steamer set over simmering water. Steam for 25 minutes. This technique, as opposed to soaking dried chiles in boiling water, preserves more of the chile flavor.

Remove the chiles from the heat. Place 1/3 of the chiles in a blender with 1 cup of water. Puree until smooth. Pour the puree into a wire strainer nested over a large bowl. Continue pureeing the rest of the chiles, garlic and water as in the previous step, in batches, so that each time you add 1/3 of the chiles. Push all of the chile puree through the strainer using a spatula or wooden spoon. Be sure to scrape off the chile puree clinging to the bottom of the strainer. Pour the remaining water into the blender and turn it on to help clean the blades. Pour this chile water through the strainer to catch the last bit of goodness. You should now have about 3 1/2 cups chile puree.

Heat the olive oil in a deep skillet over medium heat and add the flour, toasting lightly until light nut brown, stirring, 4 to 5 minutes. Whisk in the chile puree and add the oregano, vinegar and salt. Simmer the sauce for 20 minutes to blend flavors. Taste, and if the sauce seems a bit sharp, add sugar. If the sauce seems thick, add water or broth, simmering again for about 5 minutes.

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About 3 to 4 cups. Each 1/4 cup: 33 calories; 165 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 0 saturated fat; 2 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.70 gram fiber.

San Miguel de Allende Swiss Enchiladas

Active Work Time: 1 hour * Total Preparation Time: 1 1/2 hours

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These are the most delicate enchiladas I know how to make and always remind me of the time spent around Queretaro, San Juan del Ro and San Miguel de Allende, where cheese and cream are used in abundance. In Mexico, anything with mucha crema is called Swiss. Make the tortilla crepes using the recipe given here or substitute 12 thin corn tortillas. If you decide to substitute corn tortillas in place of crepes, saute each corn tortilla in 2 teaspoons of oil to soften. The crepes have the flavor of tortillas with more delicacy. Mexican crema can be found in the dairy aisle of well-stocked supermarkets and at Latino markets.

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TORTILLA CREPES

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons instant masa flour, such as Masa Harina brand

1/4 cup all-purpose unbleached flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

3 eggs

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon milk

3 tablespoons melted butter, plus 1 to 2 tablespoons melted butter for crepe pan

Combine the instant masa flour, all-purpose flour, salt, eggs, milk and 3 tablespoons of melted butter in the exact order given. Blend well with a whisk (the batter will be lumpy), and let the batter sit for at least 15 minutes. The masa flour needs that amount of time to rehydrate. Pour the batter through a strainer placed over a bowl. Use a spatula to push it through and to scrape off the bottom of the strainer. You will need to stir the batter from time to time since the masa flour tends to sink to the bottom.

Lightly brush a nonstick 71/2-inch crepe pan with butter. Heat the pan over medium-low heat. Tilt the hot pan and pour a scant 1/4 cup batter from the top, quickly rotating the pan to spread the batter. When the bottom of the tortilla crepe is flecked with gold and the edges are dry, about 1 minute, run a round-tipped kitchen knife around the edges to release the crepe and use your fingers to flip. Cook for 20 seconds more. Turn the pan upside down and drop the crepe onto a piece of wax paper. (It helps to have 8-inch squares of wax paper waiting.) Continue cooking the tortilla crepes, keeping them separate with the paper. You can do this job the day before you make the enchiladas. Store the cooled tortilla crepes in a resealable plastic bag.

Makes 10 to 12 tortillas.

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CHICKEN FILLING

2 bone-in chicken breasts, about

1 1/4 pounds

4 cups chicken broth

1/2 cup white wine

1 1/2 cups tomato salsa

3 cloves garlic, smashed

1 teaspoon salt

Remove the skin from the chicken breasts. Place the chicken in a pot with the broth, wine, salsa, garlic and salt. Bring to a simmer and cook on gentle heat for 30 minutes. Allow the chicken to cool in the broth to absorb flavors. When cool enough to handle, pull the meat from the bones and dice the chicken; reserve. Strain the broth and reserve, discarding the solids. The broth makes great soup but you’ll need 1 cup for the sauce.

Makes about 51/2 cups.

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TOMATILLO SAUCE

12 tomatillos

2 to 3 serrano chiles

1 cup chicken-salsa poaching liquid saved from above

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup chopped cilantro

1 cup Mexican crema

2 teaspoons pureed chipotle chiles packed in adobo sauce

Heat the broiler.

Remove the dry husks from the tomatillos and rinse in warm water. Place the tomatillos on a baking sheet and broil until slightly charred, about 8 minutes. Place the tomatillos in the bowl of a food processor along with the serrano chiles, reserved poaching broth, salt and cilantro. Puree into a salsa. Next add the crema and chipotles. Quickly pulse the processor to just mix together.

Makes about 3 cups sauce.

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ASSEMBLY

Chicken Filling

Tomatillo Sauce

Tortilla Crepes

3 cups grated Jack or Fontina cheese

Cilantro sprigs, for garnish

1/4 cup Mexican crema, for drizzling

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Oil 2 oval or 13x9-inch baking dishes.

Combine the diced chicken with about 1/4 cup of the Tomatillo Sauce just to moisten. Dip 1 tortilla crepe into the sauce, place 3 tablespoons of chicken down the middle and fold over the sides. Place the enchilada in the baking dish, folded side down. Continue with dipping and filling. Drizzle 1 cup of sauce over each pan of enchiladas, attempting to barely cover all surfaces. Sprinkle the grated cheese over the top.

Bake just long enough to melt the cheese, 12 to 15 minutes. Remove the enchiladas from the oven and just before serving, add sprigs of cilantro and a fine drizzle of crema over the tops of the enchiladas.

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10 to 12 enchiladas. Each of 12 enchiladas: 323 calories; 1,028 mg sodium; 132 mg cholesterol; 18 grams fat; 10 grams saturated fat; 12 grams carbohydrates; 24 grams protein; 1.11 grams fiber.

Stacked Enchilada Pie

Active Work Time: 45 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour * Vegetarian

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This recipe uses corn tortillas, evenly layered with cheese and onion, and carefully piled into a wondrous stack. The resulting pie actually benefits by being assembled the day before needed so the flavors marry with one another. Mexican crema is sold in the dairy case of well-stocked supermarkets and Latino markets.

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1/4 cup corn or canola oil, divided

10 stale corn tortillas

1 cup minced mild onion

3 cups Red Chile Sauce

1 cup pitted black olives, halved

3 cups grated medium-sharp Cheddar cheese

1/4 cup Mexican crema

1/2 cup crumbled queso fresco or queso cotija

1 cup crisped romaine leaves, cut into ribbons

2 teaspoons olive oil

Dash salt

2 teaspoons wine vinegar

1 avocado, peeled and sliced, for garnish

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Heat the oil in a small skillet over medium-high heat and fry the tortillas about 1 minute on each side. Drain on paper towels.

Cook the onion over medium heat, using the same pan, just long enough to remove the raw flavor, about 3 minutes.

Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

Begin your assembly of the enchilada stack by dipping a fried tortilla, using tongs or your fingers, into the Red Chile Sauce. Lay it in a 2 1/2-quart shallow casserole. Spread a layer of 2 tablespoons of onion, 1/4 cup of grated cheese and some olives. Keep dipping, stacking and layering ingredients until you have used all of the tortillas. Try to keep the layers even and then press the stack from the top middle so everything adheres together. Pour any remaining sauce around the base of the stack.

Bake the stack until the cheese has melted and started to bubble, 15 minutes.

Just before serving, drizzle leftover heated Red Chile Sauce (about 1/2 cup) over the sides of the pie and garnish with abandon by drizzling crema over the top so it spills down the sides. Sprinkle on the crumbled queso fresco.

Toss the romaine with the olive oil, salt and wine vinegar. Arrange the romaine ribbons around the base of the stack with a little on top. Garnish further with avocado slices. Serve immediately by cutting the stack into 4 to 6 wedges. Make sure that each wedge has enough of the crumbled cheese, the romaine and avocado slices.

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4 to 6 servings. Each of 6 servings: 589 calories; 1,146 mg sodium; 69 mg cholesterol; 44 grams fat; 16 grams saturated fat; 33 grams carbohydrates; 20 grams protein; 5.68 gram fiber.