The Secret Scent of Easter Baking

For me, Easter doesn’t bring to mind the sweet richness of chocolate bunnies or the searing burn of vinegar from egg-dyeing. Easter means the haunting scent of cardamom wafting up from my grandmother’s freshly baked Swedish buns.

My grandparents, Gunda and Emil Anderson, immigrated to New York from Sweden in the early 1900s. Luckily, my grandfather’s older brother was established and working, so they had a place to stay. Their English was poor, and so were they. They never owned a home or learned to drive; their social life revolved around the coffee table with family, friends and pastries.

My earliest memories of my grandmother’s baking come from Sunday afternoon family gathering - after church but before dinner. I remember climbing the stairs to their second-story apartment, anticipating the yeasty, sweet scent of freshly baked pastries. I will always associate her with the smell of cardamom. Her billowy hugs were filled with that pungent aroma. As a child I believed the smell came from a special scent she wore. Years later I laughed when I found that cardamom was not a bottled perfume but an exotic spice she used in her pastries.

Her specialty was a sweet braided cardamom bun, covered in sugar. When we left for home she always gave us a tin filled with the leftovers. It was understood that we would bring the tin back on our next visit so she could refill it. Best eaten at room temperature, it was a Monday morning breakfast treat.

Years later, when I was home from college, I had a strong craving for her cardamom braided buns. Fortunately, my aunt had researched our family’s history and discovered my grandmother’s recipe.

But getting it right was a little like the story of Goldilocks. My first attempt resulted in something that looked the same, but I had used powdered cardamom and it did not have the pungent flavor. Not enough. Next I used ground cardamom, but with a heavy hand. Way too much.

My third try happened to be when my parents were visiting for Easter. After the Easter basket wrappings had been cleared away, my dad sat down with his morning coffee and tried a bite. This time his smile was broad and his eyes twinkled. Just right.

How cardamom, which is native to India and Sri Lanka, came to have such a profound presence in Scandinavian cuisine is a bit of a mystery. This member of the ginger family, the third most expensive spice after saffron and vanilla, has been used in Sweden at least since the 13th century. Regardless of how it happened, cardamom has a powerful hold on the Swedes. They consume 60 times as much as the average American, using it in mulled wines, stewed fruits and all types of baked goods.

Cardamom is also used extensively in Indian and Asian cooking and in this country you will find it widely available and at the lowest price if you visit specialty markets. For the strongest flavor, buy whole pods and crush them just before using to remove the brown-black seeds. For the best flavor, use it immediately after grinding, because the essential oils quickly dissipate.

The majority of Swedes are Lutheran, and Easter is one of their special family celebration days, along with Christmas and St. Lucia Day. During the Easter season, breads are baked into animal shapes, a practice dating back to pagan days when animals were burned in rituals and offered to the gods. Farmers too poor to continue this practice burned baked breads instead.

Swedes claim to be the world’s second-largest coffee-consuming group. Coffee is served with every meal and snack throughout the day. On special occasions, family and friends gather around a ceremonial coffee table where the host, by tradition, must serve seven different cookies along with cakes and pastries, covering the top of the table. With the first cup of coffee the guest samples a sweet cardamom yeast bread and several cookies. With the second cup of coffee, an unfrosted sponge or pound cake is eaten. The third cup of coffee accompanies a rich cream or frosted torte.

Modern hosts are taking advantage of bakeries to supplement their own favorite recipes. But there are always baked goods on hand for unexpected visitors. What would Easter be without the haunting smell of cardamom?

Sunday Morning Coffee Cake (Kaffe-Kage)

Active Work Time: 30 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 10 minutes

Covered with plastic, this will keep for 2 days at room temperature. May be wrapped in plastic, placed in resealable plastic bag and frozen. If you use a glass baking dish, bake the cake at 325 degrees.

TOPPING

3/4 cup pecans

1/4 cup sugar

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

2 tablespoons butter, melted

Heat the oven to 325 degrees. Spread the pecans on a dry baking sheet and toast them until lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Coarsely chop, then combine them with the sugar, cinnamon and butter in a small bowl. Set aside.

CAKE

1 cup sugar

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, room temperature

2 eggs, separated

1/2 cup milk

1 1/4 cups flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground cardamom, optional

Increase the oven temperature to 350 degrees. Grease an 8-inch square baking pan and set aside.

In the bowl of an electric mixer, cream the sugar and butter until it looks like wet sand.

In another bowl, stir together the 2 egg yolks and the milk. Set aside.

Sift the flour with the salt and baking powder and, if using, add the cardamom; set aside.

On medium speed, alternately add half of the egg mixture and half of the flour to the butter mixture. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and add the rest of the egg mixture and the flour mixture. Beat on medium speed for 2 minutes.

Whisk the egg whites until they’re frothy and form very soft peaks, about 2 minutes. Gently fold them into the batter.

Pour the batter into the baking pan and smoothe the top. Sprinkle the cake with the topping. Bake until a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, 30 minutes. Cool in the pan, then cut into pieces and serve.

12 servings. Each serving: 249 calories; 248 mg sodium; 51 mg cholesterol; 12 grams fat; 5 grams saturated fat; 33 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 1.12 grams fiber.

Swedish Coffee Bread (Kaffe Brod)

Active Work Time: 45 minutes

Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 30 minutes plus 1 hour rising

Plan on making 2 batches of this bread because it makes excellent French toast, or cut it into small cubes for a delicious bread pudding. Do not substitute granulated sugar for the crystal sugar in this recipe. If you can’t find it, leave it out. I serve this bread with butter and lingonberry jam.

3/4 cup almonds

3/4 cups dried blueberries or other dried fruit of your choice

4 to 4 1/2 cups plus 1/2 tablespoon flour, divided

1 (1/4-ounce) envelope dry yeast

1/4 cup warm water

1 cup milk

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, softened

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup sugar

1 egg, beaten

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground cardamom, optional

1 egg, beaten, for egg wash

2 tablespoons crystal sugar

Heat the oven to 325 degrees. Grease a baking sheet and set it aside.

Spread the almonds on a dry baking sheet and toast the nuts until lightly browned, 5 to 6 minutes. Cool, then finely grind in a food processor.

Place the blueberries and almonds in a small bowl and add 1/2 tablespoon of flour and stir to coat. Set aside.

Stir the yeast into the warm water to dissolve. Let it stand for 5 minutes.

Scald the milk in a small saucepan on low heat or by heating it in the microwave 2 minutes. Place the scalded milk in the bowl of an electric mixer and add the butter, salt and sugar. Stir until the sugar dissolves and the butter has melted. Let the mixture cool to room temperature, then stir in the yeast.

Add the egg and beat until smooth. Add 2 cups of flour, the ground cardamom, the nuts and blueberries and slowly mix in. Add 2 more cups of flour and mix on medium speed until you have a soft dough, about 1 minute.

Scrape the dough out onto a floured work surface. Knead for 5 to 7 minutes, adding up to 1/2 cup additional flour as needed until the dough is no longer sticky but smooth. To knead in the electric mixer, replace the paddle with the dough hook and knead on medium speed until you get a smooth dough, about 5 to 6 minutes.

Place the dough in a large greased bowl, cover and place the bowl in a warm place until the dough has doubled, about 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

When the dough has doubled, place it on a floured surface, punch it down and divide it into 3 equal pieces. Roll out each piece into a 12-to 14-inch rope with the ends slightly tapered. Place the 3 strips side by side and pinch the top ends together to seal, then tuck the ends under. Lift the left strand and place it between the center and right strands. Then lift the right strand and place between the other 2, keeping the strands evenly spaced. Continue braiding in this way to the end, then seal the bottom pieces by pressing together, then tuck under.

Place the braided loaf on the greased baking sheet and brush the loaf with the beaten egg. Sprinkle with crystal sugar and let rest for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 375 degrees.

Bake the bread until it is deep golden and sounds hollow when thumped on the bottom, 30 to 35 minutes. If it starts to brown too quickly, cover loosely with foil. Remove the foil for the last few minutes of baking.

Let the loaf cool completely before slicing. It will keep at room temperature in an air-tight container for up to 3 days, or may be frozen.

10 servings. Each serving: 393 calories; 251 mg sodium; 57 mg cholesterol; 12 grams fat; 4 grams saturated fat; 62 grams carbohydrates; 10 grams protein; 2.63 grams fiber.

Grandma’s Buns

Active Work Time: 50 minutes

Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 15 minutes plus 1 hour rising

Also called tujvpoikar, which translates to “thief boys,� because, my grandma said, as soon as she baked them, they would disappear. Sparkling sugar, also known as crystal sugar, can be found in gourmet stores.

DOUGH

1 1/2 (1/4-ounce) envelopes dry yeast

1/2 cup plus 1 teaspoon sugar, divided

1/4 cup warm water

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, room temperature

1 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup milk

5 cups flour

2 teaspoons freshly ground cardamom seeds

3 beaten eggs

Add the yeast and 1 teaspoon of sugar to the warm water, whisk and let stand for 5 minutes.

In the large bowl of an electric mixer, combine the butter, the remaining 1/2 cup of sugar and the salt. Scald the milk by heating it in the microwave 2 minutes (or heat it in a saucepan until small bubbles form around the edges), then add it to the mixing bowl and slowly whisk until the butter is melted. Cool the mixture to lukewarm. Add the dissolved yeast and mix well.

Add 2 cups of flour and the ground cardamom and mix on medium speed until smooth, about 1 minute. Beat in the eggs 1 at a time. Add the remaining flour, 1 cup at a time, mixing 1 minute after each addition.

Scrape the soft dough onto a lightly floured board. Knead until you have a smooth and elastic dough, 6 to 7 minutes. You can also use the dough hook attachment and knead 5 to 6 minutes. When kneading by hand, it’s OK to use an additional 1/4 cup flour for your hands and the board.

Place the dough in a greased bowl, cover and place the bowl in a warm place until the dough is doubled in size, about 1 hour.

ASSEMBLY

1 cup pecans

3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) butter

1 cup granulated sugar

Dough

3 tablespoons sparkling sugar, optional

Heat the oven to 325 degrees. Grease 4 baking sheets and set aside.

Toast the pecans on a dry baking sheet until lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Finely chop them and place them in a bowl. Increase the oven temperature to 350 degrees.

Melt the butter and place it in a bowl. Put the sugar in another bowl.

Divide the dough into 4 pieces and roll each piece into a 12-inch log shape. Cut each log into 10 pieces. Roll each piece into a 6-inch rope. Fold each rope in half and cross each end over the other to form a braid shape. Place each braid on a baking sheet. Finish with the remaining dough. Dip each braid into melted butter, then into the bowl of sugar to coat, then place back on the baking sheets. Generously sprinkle each braid with nuts. Sprinkle with sparkling sugar, if using.

Bake the buns until they’re pale golden, about 15 minutes. Remove them to cooling racks and cool completely. They will stay fresh in an airtight container at room temperature 2 to 3 days, or they may be frozen up to 1 month.

About 40 buns. Each bun: 187 calories; 125 mg sodium; 32 mg cholesterol; 11 grams fat; 4 grams saturated fat; 21 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 1.03 grams fiber.

Cardamom Cookies

Active Work Time: 45 minutes

Total Preparation Time: 1 hour

These are great for an afternoon coffee break. This is the traditional way to make this butter cookie. For a variation, try dipping the cookies halfway in melted chocolate before sprinkling with the almonds. Use any leftover topping to stir into muffin, cake or pancake batters.

TOPPING

1/4 cup toasted almonds, finely ground

2 tablespoons sugar

Combine the almonds and sugar; set aside.

COOKIES

2 1/2 cups flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground cardamom

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, room temperature

3/4 cup sugar

2 eggs

Sift together the flour, baking powder and salt. Stir in the cardamom.

Cream the butter and sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer for 2 minutes. Add the eggs, 1 at a time, and beat after each addition. Add the flour mixture gradually and beat on medium speed to combine, 1 minute. Do not over-mix the dough or the cookies will not be tender.

Scrape the dough onto a sheet of plastic wrap and form the dough into a disk. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease 2 baking sheets and set them aside.

Remove half of the dough from the refrigerator. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the dough 1/4 inch thick and cut out the cookies with a cookie cutter. Place them on the baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining dough.

Sprinkle approximately about 1 teaspoon of topping on each cookie and press down slightly. Bake the cookies until the edges of the cookie reach a pale golden color, 10 to 11 minutes. Remove to rack and cool completely. Store the cookies in an airtight container at room temperature for 2 days or freeze.

36 cookies. Each cookie: 83 calories; 71 mg sodium; 18 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 12 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.36 gram fiber.

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Xochi linens in Swedish Coffee Bread photo from the Linen Closet, San Pedro.