Pa^tes and Terrines

French-style meatloaf can be homey and rustic or rich with foie gras and truffles. There are even colorful vegetable pa^tes.

* Mimosa: This bistro serves a chunky chicken pa^te with a sweet-sour onion marmalade, by itself or on a charcuterie platter along with prosciutto, jambon persille, duck rillettes and two kinds of French sausage. (Chicken country pa^te, $7.50; charcuterie platter, $11.95.) Mimosa, 8009 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 655-8895.

* Chez Mimi: The house pa^te is like a mousse of chicken livers with a dash of Cognac. Spread it on fresh toast and then take a bite of a cornichon pickle. (House pa^te, $9.50.) Chez Mimi, 246 26th St., Santa Monica, (310) 393-0558.

* La Brasserie: There are two pa^tes here, both served in individual terrines with toast and cornichons: a smooth, traditional chicken liver pa^te and a terrine of French foie gras with black truffles. (Chicken liver pa^te, $9.95; terrine of foie gras with truffles, $29.95.) La Brasserie, 202 S. Main St., Orange, (714) 978-6161.

* Melisse: On its oval white plate, the slice of foie gras terrine--layers of light pink foie gras, white celery root and black truffles--is almost too beautiful to eat. Next to it is a salad of lentil and ma^che, and the plate is drizzled with truffle vinaigrette. (Terrine of foie gras, $19.50; also on the five-course tasting menu, $65.) Melisse, 1104 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 395-0881.

* Bouchon: Chef Stephane Beaucamp makes two pa^tes. The velvety foie gras terrine, seasoned with Port and Armagnac, is served with toast and a warm apple compote; the chunky liver pa^te, made with chicken, duck liver, pork, hazelnuts and mushrooms, comes with cornichons and crusty bread. (Terrine de foie de canard, $15; homemade rustic liver pa^te, $7.) Bouchon, 7661 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 852-9400.

* Chez Melange: Chef Ace Still III changes his menu daily, but you might find his pa^te of duck liver mousse with Cognac, morels and black truffles. He also makes a beautiful vegetable terrine of wild mushrooms, studded with seasonal vegetables like artichokes or beets. It might come with flatbread and tapenade or grilled focaccia. (Duck liver pa^te, $9.95; vegetable terrine, $7.95.) Chez Melange, Palos Verdes Inn, 1716 Pacific Coast Highway, Redondo Beach, (310) 540-1222.