1999 Tablas Creek Vineyard Blanc, Central Coast.

Close your eyes and you might mistake the new Tablas Creek Vineyard Blanc for a white Cha^teauneuf-du-Pape. It has the same peachy scent--in this case overlain with violets. In the mouth, though, it has more grip than most Cha^teauneuf-du-Pape blancs. No lightweight, this, but a complex and fascinating white wine.

Produced by the Perrin brothers of the famed Cha^teauneuf estate Cha^teau de Beaucastel, together with their longtime importer Robert Haas--with whom they bought this property west of Paso Robles in 1990--it’s a blend of Marsanne, Viognier and Roussane with a small proportion of Grenache Blanc and Rolle. The grape varieties were brought from their French vineyards and propagated in the estate’s own greenhouses.

With its full-bodied taste and silken texture, this is one white wine that can stand up to that Thanksgiving turkey with all the fixings.

About $30. Available at fine wine stores.