Crumpets, Tea & Co.

There’s never an occasion when I can’t find an excuse to pop something in the oven. And no one at my table--blood-related or otherwise--has ever said, “No, I couldn’t possibly have another fresh, hot crumpet.� Baking a my house is not just a sometime thing.

That’s especially true for breakfast. Bagels, brioches and bialys, croissants and crumpets--there are so many traditional breads you can happily make, bake and serve between the hours of dawn and noon.

Breakfast breads are traditional and comforting. There’s little need to reinvent the wheel or push the envelope; the old favorites have sufficed for years and will continue to do so.

Crumpets are a great example. A good crumpet is like a cross between a pancake and an English muffin, though it’s really a mistake to compare them to anything else--especially to store-bought crumpets. If you have never had a homemade crumpet, you’re in for a treat. It’s puffy, golden and moist but crusty.

Then there’s pain au chocolat, the favorite treat of millions of French schoolkids. My recipe is a shortcut version of the classic, but it’s still sweet and buttery, made from a very rich (but easy) sweet dough hiding a cache of chopped-up chocolate that melts just a touch during baking.

Sally Lunn Bread is an American (and English) classic much like a brioche. This buttery, slightly sweet loaf is wonderful whether it’s served fresh or toasted with butter and honey.

To listen to people from New York, it’s the only place where real bagels can be made, because you have to have New York City tap water. I disagree. This recipe gives resoundingly authentic-tasting bagels no matter whose water you use.

On the other hand, nothing beats a good biscuit. A combination of leaveners--yeast, baking powder and soda--makes these extra-light, and an overnight rise makes them ready to bake when you are. It’s traditional to keep a big batch of batter in the refrigerator so you can cut off and bake portions as required.

The one twist on tradition here is the English muffin bread. I first noticed it in a book by James Beard and was intrigued by the idea of fiddling with two leaveners, baking soda and yeast. It’s a triumph--a coarse and grainy loaf that combines English muffin texture and taste with a traditional quick loaf’s ease and toast-ability.

Best of all, nothing special is needed for these recipes--just the basic flour, yeast, butter and sugar. Add a hefty mug of coffee or a proper pot of tea and it’s cue reveille. Sound the chuck-wagon bell. Dig in.

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Goldman runs the Baker Boulanger Web site at https://www.betterbaking.com.

Crumpets

Active Work Time: 25 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 45 minutes plus 1 hour 15 minutes standing

You need a cast-iron griddle or large skillet for these or an electric griddle. Crumpet recipes call for baking soda--and this is stirred in near the end of the batter’s rest time. Crumpet rings are not necessary. Once these are done, toast them, then serve them with whipped butter and honey.

2 1/2 teaspoons dry yeast

1 cup warm water

1 cup warm milk

2 tablespoons butter, melted

2 teaspoons salt

2 teaspoons sugar

About 3 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon baking soda, dissolved in 1/4 cup warm water

Butter, for greasing

* In large bowl or bowl of an electric mixer, stir together yeast and water. Let stand a few minutes then add warm milk, melted butter, salt, sugar and most of flour. Stir with paddle to encourage batter to become slightly elastic, but do not add too much flour. It should have the consistency of batter. Cover and let rest 45 minutes. Stir in dissolved soda, cover, and let rise 20 to 30 minutes.

* Grease griddle and heat over medium-low heat. Drop batter by 1/4 cup onto griddle, spacing 2 inches apart. Reduce heat to low, cover griddle and cook crumpets until tops look dry, about 15 minutes. They will look a little gummy, but will be done; do not turn over. Repeat until batter is used up. Toast before serving.

14 to 18 crumpets. Each of 18 crumpets: 113 calories; 317 mg sodium; 5 mg cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 20 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.77 gram fiber.

French Chocolate Buns (Pain au Chocolat)

Active Work Time: 45 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 15 minutes plus 1 1/2 hours standing

YEASTED PASTRY DOUGH

5 teaspoons dry yeast

1/2 cup warm water

1 cup warm milk

2/3 cup sugar

1 1/4 teaspoons salt

1 egg

2 egg yolks

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, softened

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 teaspoon finely minced lemon zest

4 1/2 to 5 1/2 cups flour

Nonstick cooking spray, for greasing

* Stir together yeast and water in large bowl. Let mixture stand 10 minutes to proof yeast. Whisk in warm milk, then sugar, salt, egg, egg yolks, butter, vanilla and lemon zest. Combine until dough is too stiff to mix, adding just enough flour so that dough holds together and is still a bit moist. Turn dough out on lightly floured surface and knead until soft, smooth and elastic, 8 to 10 minutes.

* Place dough in greased bowl, then place bowl in a large plastic bag. Close bag loosely and let dough rise until puffy, about 45 minutes. Gently punch down dough and divide it into 12 equal portions. Let rest 10 minutes.

FILLING

2 cups coarsely chopped semi-sweet chocolate

1/3 cup sugar

1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

* Toss chopped chocolate with sugar and cinnamon.

ASSEMBLY

1 egg

Granulated sugar

Coarse sugar, optional

* Roll or press dough into 12 ovals, each about 7 inches long, and divide chocolate mixture equally among ovals, placing it in center of each. Fold in ends, then sides, of each oval and press gently to seal. You will have 12 small cylinders.

* Place buns on two baking sheets lined with parchment paper and set sheets in a large plastic bag. Loosely close bag and let buns rise until puffy, about 30 to 45 minutes.

* Whisk together egg and a dash of granulated sugar to make an egg wash.

* Make 3 to 4 slits on each bun, then brush buns liberally with egg wash. Sprinkle each bun with granulated or coarse sugar, about 1 tablespoon total, and bake at 350 degrees until golden brown, 18 to 22 minutes.

12 buns. Each bun: 563 calories; 352 mg sodium; 100 mg cholesterol; 19 grams fat; 92 grams carbohydrates; 570 grams protein; 3.45 grams fiber.

Blueberry Sally Lunn

Active Work Time: 25 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 5 minutes plus 1 hour standing

Frozen raspberries will also work, as would a mixture of orange zest and chopped dried cranberries. Or maybe a dusting of cocoa powder or cinnamon sugar on top?

4 1/2 teaspoons dry yeast

1 cup warm water

1/2 cup sugar, plus 1 tablespoon sugar, for dusting

1 1/8 teaspoons salt

3 eggs

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, softened

1/3 cup nonfat powdered milk

2 cups all-purpose flour

3 cups bread flour

1 cup blueberries (fresh or thawed)

Nonstick cooking spray, for greasing

2 tablespoons melted butter

1/4 teaspoon cinnamon, for dusting

* Whisk together yeast and water. Add sugar, salt, eggs, butter, powdered milk and most of all-purpose and bread flours and combine well until a sticky, elastic dough is formed. Fold in blueberries. Cover bowl with a tea towel and let batter rest 30 minutes.

* Pour batter into generously greased 9- or 10-inch angel food cake pan. Cover pan lightly with greased wax paper and let batter rise until it nearly reaches top of pan, about 1 hour. Drizzle on melted butter and dust with 1 tablespoon sugar and cinnamon.

* Place cake pan on baking sheet and bake at 350 degrees until nicely browned, about 40 minutes. Cool 10 minutes before removing from pan and placing on a wire rack to cool completely.

10 to 12 servings. Each of 12 servings: 402 calories; 357 mg sodium; 88 mg cholesterol; 12 grams fat; 64 grams carbohydrates; 10 grams protein; 2.05 grams fiber.

Big Apple Bagels

Active Work Time: 1 hour 10 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 2 hours plus 30 minutes standing

Malt powder or syrup can be found at well-stocked health food markets.

1 1/2 teaspoons instant or bread-machine yeast

1 1/2 cups slightly warm water

1 tablespoon oil

1 tablespoon sugar

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons malt powder or syrup

4 1/2 to 5 1/2 cups bread flour, plus more for kneading

1 tablespoon coarse salt

Cornmeal, for preparing pans, optional

6 quarts water

Bagel toppings: Sesame seeds, poppy seeds, dry or rehydrated garlic granules, dried onion flakes, minced fresh garlic, minced fresh onions, caraway seeds, coarse salt

* Whisk together yeast, warm water, oil, sugar and 2 teaspoons malt powder. Stir in 1 cup flour, then 2 teaspoons salt, then most of remaining flour. Knead on floured board 10 to 12 minutes to make a very stiff dough. Cover and let dough rest on a board about 10 minutes.

* Divide dough into 10 to 12 sections and form into 10-inch long strips. Roll ends together to seal and make a ring. Place on a very lightly floured surface near your stove. Let bagels rest 15 to 20 minutes. Bagels should have a “half proof�--they should rise halfway or appear puffy.

* Line 1 baking sheet with a kitchen towel. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper and lightly sprinkle them with cornmeal, if desired. Bring water to boil in large soup pot or Dutch oven; add 2 tablespoons malt powder and 1 teaspoon salt. Reduce water to simmer and add bagels a few at a time. Allow to come to surface and simmer 30 seconds. Turn over and cook other side about 45 seconds (total 1 1/2 minutes). Place on towel-lined baking sheet. Leave plain or sprinkle on topping of choice. Transfer to parchment-lined baking sheets.

* Place in 450-degree oven and reduce heat to 425 degrees. Bake until golden brown, about 17 to 22 minutes, turning bagels once, when almost baked. (If you have a baking stone, finish bagels on the stone directly.)

12 bagels. Each bagel: 226 calories; 591 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 44 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 1.48 grams fiber.

Overnight Yeasted Flaky Biscuits

Active Work Time: 30 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 45 minutes plus 8 hours chilling

5 cups flour, plus more for rolling

8 teaspoons baking powder

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon baking soda

3 tablespoons sugar

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) cold butter

1/2 cup cold shortening

5 teaspoons dry yeast

1/2 cup warm water

1 3/4 to 2 cups warm buttermilk

Melted butter

* Stir together flour, baking powder, salt, baking soda and sugar in large bowl. Cut butter and shortening into dry ingredients until crumbly and well distributed.

* In small bowl, sprinkle yeast over warm water and stir briefly. Allow to dissolve and swell, 5 to 10 minutes. Add yeast mixture and warm buttermilk to dry ingredients and toss with a fork to blend and moisten. Cover bowl and refrigerate overnight or up to 2 days.

* To make biscuits, roll dough out on lightly floured board to a thickness of 1 inch or so. Cut into rounds, wedges or squares with a knife or biscuit cutter. Brush generously with melted butter.

* Place on baking sheet. Bake at 400 degrees until lightly browned on top, about 12 to 15 minutes.

18 biscuits. Each biscuit: 233 calories; 601 mg sodium; 8 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 33 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 1.18 grams fiber.

English Muffin Bread

Active Work Time: 15 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 15 minutes plus 30 minutes standing

I used 1 large loaf pan (12x5 inches) but 2 (9x5-inch pans) would work well. If you want, add some raisins and a smidgen of cinnamon. King Arthur brand and white whole-wheat flour can be found at Trader Joe’s stores or order from The Baker’s Catalogue (800) 827-6836. You can substitute 1/4 cup stone-ground whole-wheat flower.

2 tablespoons instant or bread-machine yeast

3/4 cup warm water

1 1/2 cups warm milk

2 tablespoons melted butter or oil, plus more for greasing

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon honey

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon baking soda dissolved in 1 tablespoon cold water

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

2 cups unbleached bread flour

1/2 cup to 1 cup white whole-wheat flour

Stone-ground cornmeal, for sprinkling

* In a large mixing bowl or bowl of an electric mixer, stir together yeast and warm water. Let stand a few minutes, then add milk, butter, sugar, honey and salt. Stir in dissolved baking soda. Fold in all-purpose, bread and whole wheat flours and stir to make a batter. Using mixer paddle or a wooden spoon, blend well, about 3 minutes.

* Generously grease 2 (9x5-inch) loaf pans. Sprinkle with cornmeal. Divide batter equally between prepared pans. Cover with a plastic bag (allowing batter to rise but not stick to plastic). Let rise until doubled, about 30 to 40 minutes.

* Bake at 375 degrees until loaves are brown and sound hollow when tapped, 40 to 50 minutes. Cool on a rack 10 minutes before turning out to cool completely.

16 servings. Each serving: 179 calories; 214 mg sodium; 7 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 33 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 1.84 grams fiber.